ACE Home Inspections, LLC

P.O. Box 1993
Alabaster, AL 35007
(205)401-3030

Customer
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Home
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Real Estate Agent
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Inspection Date 
Monday, October 29, 2007
Weather:
Clear and Sunny
Report ID:
07040 FINAL REPORT
Temperature:
70 to 75 degrees
Inspected By 
Jeff Aiken

SUMMARY


ACE Home Inspections, LLC

P.O. Box 1993
Alabaster, AL 35007
(205)401-3030

Customer
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Home
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The following items or discoveries indicate that these systems or components do not function as intended or adversely affects the habitabilty of the dwelling; or appear to warrant further investigation by a specialist, or requires subsequent observation.

This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to keep it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.

This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.

WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
1.2 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-Some metal piping was observed on top of the ground beside the right wall. Purpose is unknown where any owner disclosure is recommended.
1.3 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
It is always recommended that soil along the top of retaining walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down the backside. The following issues were observed at the time of inspection.

1,2-The front yard is sloped slightly down towards the house where water may gather along the top or near the high concrete block retaining wall. There were no water escape drains along the bottom, making proper landscaping along the top very very important. The wall appears relatively level and free of cracking. This is good, however deterioration can sometimes be a slow practice over time where robust drainage is always recommended. Recommend monitoring water run-off during a storm and drainage enhancements if necessary which may include but are not limited to a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard installed parallel with the top of the wall which would prevent water from running against and over the wall and instead direct it down into the driveway where the wall begins. The right side would continue or connect to the wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression which was recommended along the front wall of the house in report section 1.4.


ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage or moisture intrusion issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion.
1.4 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
It is always recommended that soil against all foundation walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down along the foundation. (Maintenance tip.)

1,2,3,4-The soil is relatively level directly against the front and right foundation walls. The property is sloped down towards the rear where water drains towards and possibly against, along, or near the front and right foundation walls. Small isolated areas of water may also collect in any low areas each time it rains until they evaporate and dissipate into the ground. The basement and crawlspace appeared overall dry and free of standing water, however there are some areas of darker discoloration along the front and right concrete block walls in the crawlspace. It is important to note that moisture intrusion issues can sometimes develop slowly over a long period of time or may only occur after the ground has become saturated from days of heavy rain. The darker areas are an indication that there may have been or may still be water behind or within the wall which is why adequate and robust exterior drainage is always recommended. (Refer to report section for additional pictures.)

Since it was not raining at the time of inspection, any areas of collection along the front and right walls are not known. Recommend areas be monitored during a storm and further investigation and repairs by a licensed landscaping contractor if any drainage issues such as water that runs against, along or near a foundation wall or if any sizeable collections should develop which take excessively long to dissipate and remain soft and squishy, especially if they are close to the foundation.

OVERALL SUMMATION: Exterior drainage appears overall adequate, based on the inspection of the crawlspace, however is NOT robust where additional landscaping or drainage enhancements would be recommended. Drainage enhancements may include, but are not limited to some slight relandscaping as listed below.

A-Additional compacted soil against the front wall and/or a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard installed parallel to the wall which would direct water off to the far left or right. The left side would continue or connect to the wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression which was recommended along the top of the retaining wall in report section 1.3. Essentially one long wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression is recommended from where the retaining wall to the front right corner of the house.

B-Additional compacted soil against the right wall and/or a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard installed parallel to the wall which would direct water off to the far rear.

ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage or moisture intrusion issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion.

PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
2.0 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-A small piece of the front center porch tile floor covering has broken off. (cosmetic)
2.1 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The triangular areas beside the brick chimney within the loft that are open which could be considered a safety hazard for small children where decorative type banisters are recommended, but not required.
2.2 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The loft stairway is missing a hand-rail which are always recommended. (safety)
2.3 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The majority of the Rear Deck Band is not attached properly to the wall or band of home. It should have 5/8 galvanized "Lag Screws" or "Carriage Bolts" approximately every 36 inches. Only a small right or garage side section has some through-bolts. Repairs or securement enhancements are recommended.
2.4 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The rear deck was pounced upon and was determined to still be structurally adequate with the exception of the banisters, however the wood members are weathered where cleaning with a "deck wash" and application of an exterior wood sealant are recommended.
2.5 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The top trim boards on the front left porch entry privacy wall are deteriorated where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to replacement of all deteriorated wood members.
2.6 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The screening material is deteriorated on one rear covered deck and front left porch entry aluminum storm doors.
2.7 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-A handle is missing on one rear covered deck aluminum storm door.
2.8 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2-The majority of the rear open walkway deck angled banisters and benches are aged and have become loose and detached from deterioration. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to strengthening with new bracing boards or more preferably total replacement of all banisters and benches.
2.9 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MINOR REPAIRS
The 2x4 wood railing at the top of the left side covered deck steps is deteriorated and the banister along the steps is also loose. Replacement of top 2x4 and additional banister bracing boards are recommended.
2.10 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
REAR ENCLOSED DECK: wood member deterioration

1,2,3-The wood post in the right corner (standing in back yard and looking at deck) supporting the roof is severely deteriorated from the floor to the roof along with some of the center perpendicular screening boards. Possible causes of this deterioration may include but are not limited to insect infiltration. A determination of whether area is active or inactive is beyond the scope of the inspection where further investigation by a licensed pest control contractor is recommended along with structural repairs by a licensed contractor which may include but are not to limited replacement of all deteriorated wood members.

EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
3.3 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
The paint finish on some areas of siding is aged where heavily painting is recommended. (Maintenance tip.)
3.4 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Some of the fixed double windows are noticeably fogged from dried condensate between the double-panes which is also an indication of broken seals. Recommend further investigation by a licensed window contractor which may include but is not limited to window replacement(s). The fogged window locations are listed below.

-Two in the living room.
-Four in the dining room.
3.5 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
SHINGLE AND FLAT GRAVEL AGGREGATE ROOF COVERINGS:

1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12-The main house shingle roof covering and flashing around the penetrations appear adequate with no loose or missing areas. The date stamps on the rubber boot flashing around the white vent pipes that pierce the roof are worn and unreadable, however the shingle roof is estimated to be from 10 to 12 years old. The left side sections of shingles are darker discolored from normal aging because they face north and receive less sunlight. The items listed below were observed during the inspection.

-Large piled sections of leaves and twigs were observed along the backside roof valleys and flat grave aggregate roof areas. Leaves hold or retain moisture causing premature aging.

-The open exposed sections of tar on the flat gravel aggregate sections over the rear enclosed deck, skylight room, and master bedroom porch has some spider web type cracking from aging.

Further investigation by a licensed roofing contractor of all flat gravel aggregate roof covering after removal of all leaves and twigs is recommended.
3.6 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2-Tree limbs are partially covering the areas of siding and roof covering around the house where trimming is recommended. This is important because they can retain moisture and cause premature siding and shingle aging.
3.7 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
Entry door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All entry door framing boards are flush with the threshold.

1-The lower edges of the outer trim boards on the rear basement entry door have some deterioration where repairs are recommended which may include but is not limited to the splicing in of new wood and heavily painting and caulking.
3.8 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
Overhead garage door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the concrete slab or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All overhead garage door framing boards are flush with the slab.

1-The lower several inches of the overhead garage door framing has become deteriorated where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to the splicing in of new wood and heavily painting and caulking.
3.9 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-One window pane on the rear wall of the skylight room is broken where pane replacement by a licensed contractor is recommended.
3.10 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
SIDING AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS AREAS: wood member deterioration

The majority of the house siding and eaves areas are adequate and free of deterioration with the exception of the isolated areas listed below. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. Repairs by a licensed contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to the installation of new siding and the splicing in of new wood where needed and heavily painting. Areas are understood to be deteriorated from moisture unless specified otherwise.

1-A small 12 inch area of siding and trim boards to the left of the left rear enclosed deck entry aluminum storm door.
2-A 5ft bottom edge section of siding to the left of and another 4ft bottom edge section of siding to the right of the rear wall living room windows.
3-The end section of fascia or eaves boards above the rear enclosed porch in front of the master bedroom.
4-The lower edges of siding to the right of the front left entry door.
5-The backside fascia boards on the right side gable have small holes. Possible causes of this deterioration may include but are not limited to insect infiltration. A determination of whether area is active or inactive is beyond the scope of the inspection where further investigation by a licensed pest control contractor is recommended.
3.11 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
EXTERIOR WINDOWS: wood member deterioration

1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11-The majority of the paint finish on the windows, window framing, and window trim boards is aged with numerous peeled and missing areas and the specific areas listed below are mild to severely moisture deteriorated. Repairs by a licensed contractor are recommended, which may include but are not limited to replacement of all deteriorated wood members, then heavily painting. It is important to note that it may not be possible to simply splice in new wood members when dealing with windows where some new windows may need to be purchased. All areas are described by standing in the yard and looking at the house and by actual house room location. Areas are understood to be deteriorated from moisture unless specified otherwise.

-The lower sill area along the window to the left of the rear deck steps. (rear right bedroom)
-The trim boards along the top of the middle section of fixed windows along the rear open deck. (rear living room)
-The wood members of and around the section of casement windows along the rear open deck. (rear living room)
-The top trim board along the windows over the garage. (master bedroom)
-The top trim board along all the right side windows. (right side bedrooms)
-The wood members of and around the section of casement windows along the right side. (master bedroom)
-The lower sill area along the section of front center casement windows. (kitchen and dining room)

*****It is important to note that it appears that some of the moisture deteriorated areas above the windows was caused from the lack of adequate flashing. Normally a metal type flashing that fits under the siding and rests on top of the window wood members is present, which was observed not to present on this house, where installation upon repairs would be highly recommended.

*****It is also important to note that immediate repairs are recommended because this deterioration has allowed moisture to seep through the walls into the interior based on the amount of discolored and deteriorated plasterboard under the living room and dining room windows. Repairs to these areas are recommended after the exterior windows issues have been repaired. See pictures 10 and 11.

ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
4.4 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
It does not appear that the two bathroom exhaust fans vent properly to the exterior which is always recommended. Fans completely covered or buried under insulation can cause the surrounding plasterboard to become deteriorated and also add heat to an already hot summer attic. Inexpensive kits purchased at major home centers contain flex hose that can be installed from the fan to a soffit or gable vent.
4.5 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3-About a half dozen small electrical junction boxes were observed in the right and left side attic areas. It is always recommended that all junction boxes have a proper cover, regardless of location. (safety)

KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
5.5 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3-The piping under the sinks was free of observed leakage. This is good, however the metal drain piping is original and has aged with some areas of heavy corrosion where upgrading with new metal or PVC in the near future is recommended, but is not required.
5.6 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
The house ceilings are free of discoloration from leakage, with the exception of the items listed below. These areas of previous leakage may have been repaired when the last roof covering was installed, however this is an unknown since it was not raining at the time of the inspection. Owner disclosure of below listed areas along with monitorization, checking for any dampness, after a heavy storm, and cosmetic repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to painting ceilings. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures.

1,2-A 6in x 20in area of light brown discoloration along the left side of fireplace directly under the loft most likely from previous chimney flashing issues?
3,4,5-The 1x5 wood ceiling boards along both sides of the rear deck door frame are stained and discolored from previous roof leakage.
6-A 15in circular barely noticeable area of staining on the dining room ceiling. The loft is directly above where this is an unknown?
5.7 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3-House carpets are stained from where previous furniture sat, dirty, some seaming has pulled loose, and carpet is rippled in left side front entry area where overall carpet evaluation by a licensed carpet contractor is recommended which could include repair and cleaning or replacement.
5.8 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
The finish on the interior window sills is aged where refinishing is recommended.
5.9 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-A total of 12 ceramic tiles are missing on the ceiling above the master bathroom shower stall and the corners have small cracks which need to be caulked.
5.10 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-One small cabinet cover is missing under the kitchen sink counter.
5.11 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-There are numerous small nails and holes in all the walls from previous hanging items and wear and tear. (cosmetic)
5.12 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MINOR REPAIRS
The front right bedroom, kitchen, and rear deck ceiling fans have significant wobble on high speed where proper balancing or alignment is recommended.
5.13 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MINOR REPAIRS
The kitchen sink vegetable spray wand does not function.
5.14 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MINOR REPAIRS
The kitchen cabinets are loose where they mount to the wall. They appear to be attached only along the top where additional lower screws are recommended.
5.16 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
MINOR REPAIRS
The right bathroom commode tank runs constantly after flushed where repairs are recommended.

PLUMBING (Main, Exterior, Water Heater, Washer, Dryer)
6.6 PLUMBING SYSTEM
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Overall house water pressure is very low where further investigation by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. The valve was observed to be in the full-on position within the water meter basin.
6.7 PLUMBING SYSTEM
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The water heater TPR valve has a 3/4 inch sized extension pipe, however it falls short of being within 6 inches of the floor. Proper extension pipes are always recommended for all water haters, wherever they are located. A slightly longer TPR extension pipe is recommended. (safety)

ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION:

Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap.

ELECTRICAL (Service, Interior Distribution Panels, Exterior)
7.4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Some electrical outlets are loose such as over the garage workbench where they move all around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. Recommend all be inspected and secured.
7.5 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2-All electrical outlets are 3-prong and grounded with the exception of one along the rear open deck and the two outlets in the skylight room. This should not be expected where grounded plugs were most likely required at the time of construction since all others are grounded. These outlets have the proper voltage and are functional but ungrounded. It is always advisable to have grounded outlets. Computers are very sensitive devices, and commonly experience data corruption in non-grounded environments. Ungrounded outlets pose a safety hazard and are in violation of the building and national wiring codes.

*****It is recommended, since it was most likely required at the time of construction, that a licensed electrical contractor upgrade all ungrounded outlets. It is also important to note that there may be other ungrounded outlets since not all outlets were tested due to some owner stored items where testing and repairs after present owner has moved and before moving in is always recommended.
7.6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-Only one ground wire was found to leave the main panel most likely to an exterior ground rod behind the retaining wall beside the meter. The electrical system should be grounded with both a ground rod and to the copper water pipes. It is suggested but not required, that the system also be grounded to the water pipes. Water pipes are something to be grounded and are usually not intended to be an actual system ground. Opinions by licensed electricians on this issue varies between safe and unsafe. It is also important to note that just because a ground wire to the water pipes was not located does not necessarily mean that it does not exist where a licensed electrical contractor is recommended for further investigation or an opinion and to correct if deemed necessary.
7.7 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The sub-panel was found to have the ground and neutral wires on the same bar. The main panel which is also the main disconnect is located beside this sub-panel.. All sub-panels should have the neutral (white) wires separated from the ground (bare) wires. Mixing these on the same bar allows the possible potential for voltage to be present on the grounding system. Opinions by licensed electrical contractors on this panel issue varies between safe and unsafe. I recommend you consult one for an opinion and correct if necessary. (safety)
7.8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-One breaker on the right side of the garage located sub-panel has two attached wires. This is referred to as "double-tapping" and is usually no allowed and considered a fire hazard. Further investigation and repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to moving one wire to a newly installed breaker.

7.9 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3,4-The outlets tested below were found to have no power where further investigation and repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended.

-One rear open deck outlet.
-Two outlets in the front right bedroom.
-One outlet in the living room and another in the dining room, both near the front entry area.
-One outlet attached to the bottom of the main electrical panel in the garage.
7.10 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The front left entry porch light has a broken glass pane.

FIREPLACE, CHIMNEY
10.1 FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code.

FOUNDATION INTERIOR
11.6 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
The basement and crawlspace were free of standing water, however some of the concrete block foundation walls have darker discolored areas and white or areas of efflorescence, indicating previous or present water behind and within the walls. Refer to report section 1.4 for additional information. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures.

1-Minor discoloration along the lower edges of the front basement wall. Most likely from exterior landscaping issues.

2-More than minor areas of discoloration along the front garage wall. Most likely from exterior landscaping issues.

3,4,5-More than minor areas of discoloration along the rear garage and basement walls. Most likely due to gutter downspout leakage since this wall is not soil-banked.

6,7,8-More than minor areas of discoloration along the crawlspace walls. Most likely from exterior landscaping issues.



11.7 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14-The concrete block foundation walls appear relatively level and free of major cracking. This is good, however there is a horizontal hairline to 1/32 inch wide crack located about 4 blocks down or 3 feet from the top of the wall, that spans the majority of the front basement and garage wall. The basement crack is slight or minor however it gets more noticeable or wider as it travels down the garage wall. The garage wall appears to have a slight or minor inward bow. Horizontal cracking such as this can be caused from hydrostatic pressure from water getting behind the wall. With all soil-banked basements it can not be stressed enough how important exterior drainage can be! Water behind a soil-banked concrete block wall can create undo stresses or forces which can over time lead to cracking and structural issues. Refer to report section 1.4 for additional information. This crack could not be viewed from the exterior side because it is below soil grade.

*****This does not appear to be a major issue at the time of the inspection since crack width and bowing are nominal, however if crack width and bowing continue to worsen then a licensed foundation contractor or specialist would be recommended for further investigation and repair. Repair at that time may include but is not limited to the installation of 4 inch steel tubing posts spaced evenly along the front wall. These posts are bolted to the floor joists and to the slab floor. Refer to sample pictures 3 and 4. These possible repair ideas are listed as a courtesy and are not meant to be an actual repair scenario. Any exact repairs scenarios should always be obtained from a licensed foundation contractor or specialist along with any further questions.

*****ACE Home Inspections, LLC performs a foundation visual inspection looking for cracks, differentials, and other obvious concerns, where the foundation and wall construction and other characteristics such as exact concrete block thickness, grade height, and whether the concrete block openings have been filled with poured concrete are unknowns and beyond the scope of the inspection. Refer to the additional information listed below.

ADDITIONAL CONCRETE BLOCK WALL INFORMATION:

Although a simple mortar construction may be adequate for a small free-standing garden wall, it will not be sufficient for foundations, retaining walls or load-bearing walls in houses.

The strength of block construction can be improved by completely filling the voids with concrete, but it is more cost effective use steel reinforcement. Reinforcement can be achieve in several ways. Steel bars (usually called rebar) can be placed vertically within the blocks at evenly spaced intervals. This provides resistance to flexural stress. Steel rebar or steel mesh is placed horizontally between rows of blocks to provide resistance to shear stress. A flexible caulking must be placed at regular intervals in place of mortar to accommodate expansion and contraction of the walls. Without these joints, concrete block walls will inevitably develop cracks.

Thickness of Wall Maximum Height* of Backfill (Slab to Grade)

8 inches 4 feet
10 inches 6 feet
12 inches 7 feet

*Note: Maximum height refers to the height of the soil against the wall and not the height of the wall itself.

*****The 1999 Standard Building Code Table 1804.6.1A requires an 8 foot high wall with 8 foot of backfill to be constructed using a 10 or 12 inch thick concrete block filled with granite, grout, or concrete. It is important to note that the jurisdiction where the house was constructed may not have a concrete block thickness requirement.

This information was provided as a courtesy or as general information and is not meant to reflect the actual characteristics of the inspected home.
11.8 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The light switch at the bottom of the basement stairs is missing a cover. (safety)
11.9 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-The crawlspace wood members appear structurally adequate and free of major moisture discolorations. This is good! Some wood members however have a slight covering or coating of what may be a moisture discoloration. Possible causes of these discolorations and moisture reduction maintenance tips may include but are not limited to the items discussed below.

(SOIL BANKING) It is always recommended that all soil against the exterior walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage.

(GUTTERS) Gutters are always recommended, but are not required.

(VAPOR BARRIER) A plastic vapor barrier is always recommended to keep inherent ground water to a minimum.

(PLUMBING LEAKS) Previous and present plumbing leaks from aged and corroded water and drain piping can raise the moisture content where repairs and appropriate upgrades are always recommended.

(EXHAUST VENTS) All dryer or downdraft kitchen hoods should always exhaust to the exterior.

(VENTILATION) Adequate ventilation is very important and is usually in the form of small vet openings in the walls where a cross-breeze can be established. Robust or additional ventilation is always welcomed, and may include but is not limited to the installation of small fans designed to fit in the existing crawlspace vents or larger fan(s) within the entry door(s). Fans help circulate the air and remove moisture to the exterior.

(DEHUMIDIFIER) Crawlspace areas are normally damp from inherent ground moisture. Moisture can be reduced through the installation of a dehumidifier.

(GROUND WATER) Sometimes inherent ground water is determined to be the issue where the contractor may recommend, the banked soil be removed, the walls coated, and a proper designed drainage system be installed along the exterior walls, and/or a trench or mote installed around the perimeter of the walls where all water drains to a centrally located sump pump, where these would be the more involved and costly approach.

These types of moisture issues are sometimes difficult to diagnose where a system of trial and error sometimes must be undertaken. Usually the obvious and least costly approaches such as proper soil banking, downspout issues, full plastic vapor barriers, maintenance and repair of water and drain piping, ventilation, and the use of dehumidifiers are taken care of before proceeding.

These responses are purely speculative because there are some unknowns and it was not raining at time of inspection.

The actual wood members appear to be structurally adequate and are just lightly coated in some areas with a slight discoloration. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed remediator and makes no claims on how to determine any discoloration characteristics, and does not sample, test, remove, or repair any areas of moisture discoloration or deterioration and only reports on the findings observed at the time of the inspection. When dealing with a crawlspace, especially ones where discolorations of any kind were observed which may cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and when all the heating and air ductwork is in the crawlspace where some of the crawlspace air can be recycled throughout the house interior, a licensed contractor is always recommended to further investigate which may include air sample and discoloration testing.

*****ALL DUCTWORK IS LOCATED WITHIN THE CRAWLSPACE.

Installation of a vent system air cleaning system is always recommended, but not required, especially in a crawlspace or basement containing the houses' heating and air ductwork. Types of air cleaning or purifier systems are listed below.

1-(germicidal UV lamp or air-purifier that installs in the ductwork) These are not just for allergies. UV light is known to destroy many virus types, mold, and bacteria. Units such as the Robertson Industrial Lighting Model UV-12 produce ultraviolet germicidal irradiation.

2-(electronic air-cleaner under the heating unit) in the carport storage room. In head-to-head independent testing of home air cleaners, researchers found that electronic air cleaners such as the TRANE CleanEffectsJ cleaned indoor air several hundred times more effectively than not only the 1-inch disposable filter found in most American homes, but also the "in-room" type air cleaners that consumers have bought by the tens of thousands.

3-(radiant catalytic ionization (RCI) cell used in DuctwoRx) DuctwoRx states it reduces cooking, household, and pet odors, air pollutants, chemical odors, smoke, and viruses. It helps to clean, purify, and sanitize the air and reduces up to 99.9% of Bacteria & Mold such as Staph, E. Coli, Strep, and Black Mold on the surfaces of your home. This product installs directly on your heating and air system.

ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not endorse or recommend a specific system or manufacturer and only lists them as a courtesy and always recommends further investigation and research if an actual system is to be chosen.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE CRAWLSPACE WOOD MEMBERS ARE FREE OF MAJOR AREAS OF DISCOLORATION AND THE DISCOLORED AREAS ARE STILL STRUCTURALLY ADEQUATE. SMALL AMOUNTS OF DISCOLORATIONS ARE COMMON WITHIN AN AGED CRAWLSPACE AND USUALLY ONLY CREATE CONCERNS FOR INDIVIDUALS PRONE TO ALLERGIES OR ASTHMA, HOWEVER STILL MERIT CONSIDERATION ALONG WITH PROPER MAINTENANCE AND THE CORRECTION OR REDUCTION OF ANY MOISTURE ISSUES.


OVERALL SUMMATION: The crawlspace floor is covered with a plastic vapor barrier, gutters are present, the dryer vent escapes properly through the rear wall, and there do not appear to be any major plumbing issues or previous leakage. This is all good, however overall crawlspace ventilation is inadequate where NO vents were observed along the exterior walls. The entire crawlspace is 100% dark when the interior basement wall scuttle hole door is closed. Robust ventilation is always recommended which is this case may include but is not limited to the installation of some wall vents and possibly some vent fans as shown in the pictures. This is especially important due to previous moisture issues brought about from improper landscaping.

ACE Home Inspections, LLC

Home inspectors are not required to report on the following: Life expectancy of any component or system; The causes of the need for a repair; The methods, materials, and costs of corrections; The suitability of the property for any specialized use; Compliance or non-compliance with codes, ordinances, statutes, regulatory requirements or restrictions; The market value of the property or its marketability; The advisability or inadvisability of purchase of the property; Any component or system that was not observed; The presence or absence of pests such as wood damaging organisms, rodents, or insects; or Cosmetic items, underground items, or items not permanently installed. Home inspectors are not required to: Offer warranties or guarantees of any kind; Calculate the strength, adequacy, or efficiency of any system or component; Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage the property or its components or be dangerous to the home inspector or other persons; Operate any system or component that is shut down or otherwise inoperable; Operate any system or component that does not respond to normal operating controls; Disturb insulation, move personal items, panels, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow, ice, or debris that obstructs access or visibility; Determine the presence or absence of any suspected adverse environmental condition or hazardous substance, including but not limited to mold, toxins, carcinogens, noise, contaminants in the building or in soil, water, and air; Determine the effectiveness of any system installed to control or remove suspected hazardous substances; Predict future condition, including but not limited to failure of components; Since this report is provided for the specific benefit of the customer(s), secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain current information concerning this property.

ACE Home Inspections, LLC

Prepared Using HomeGauge http://www.homegauge.com/ SHGI (c) 2000-2003 : Licensed To Jeffrey James Aiken

 

WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS

Styles & Materials
LANDSCAPING:
FRONT DRAINS TO STREET
SIDES DRAIN TO REAR
PROPERTY SLOPES DOWN TO REAR
FOREST SURROUND
RETAINING WALLS:
CONCRETE BLOCK ALONG DRIVEWAY
WALKWAYS AND DRIVEWAYS:
CONCRETE
FRONT CIRCULAR TURNROUND
LEFT STRAIGHT TO GARAGE



Inspection Items
1.0 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-Sentricon termite colony terminator system canisters are located around the property. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect these and always recommends any questions or concerns be addressed to the system installation and maintenance contractor.
1.1 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1,2-The driveway has a slight downward slope from the overhead door, the interior areas on the sides of the overhead door appear adequate, and there is a slightly raised lip, all indicators that water should drain away and down to the far rear and not into the garage. This is good, however it also should be pointed out that small amounts of water can sometimes blow under the bottom seal during a prolonged or heavy storm.
1.2 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-Some metal piping was observed on top of the ground beside the right wall. Purpose is unknown where any owner disclosure is recommended.
1.3 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
It is always recommended that soil along the top of retaining walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down the backside. The following issues were observed at the time of inspection.

1,2-The front yard is sloped slightly down towards the house where water may gather along the top or near the high concrete block retaining wall. There were no water escape drains along the bottom, making proper landscaping along the top very very important. The wall appears relatively level and free of cracking. This is good, however deterioration can sometimes be a slow practice over time where robust drainage is always recommended. Recommend monitoring water run-off during a storm and drainage enhancements if necessary which may include but are not limited to a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard installed parallel with the top of the wall which would prevent water from running against and over the wall and instead direct it down into the driveway where the wall begins. The right side would continue or connect to the wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression which was recommended along the front wall of the house in report section 1.4.


ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage or moisture intrusion issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion.
1.4 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
It is always recommended that soil against all foundation walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage. This prevents water from draining down along the foundation. (Maintenance tip.)

1,2,3,4-The soil is relatively level directly against the front and right foundation walls. The property is sloped down towards the rear where water drains towards and possibly against, along, or near the front and right foundation walls. Small isolated areas of water may also collect in any low areas each time it rains until they evaporate and dissipate into the ground. The basement and crawlspace appeared overall dry and free of standing water, however there are some areas of darker discoloration along the front and right concrete block walls in the crawlspace. It is important to note that moisture intrusion issues can sometimes develop slowly over a long period of time or may only occur after the ground has become saturated from days of heavy rain. The darker areas are an indication that there may have been or may still be water behind or within the wall which is why adequate and robust exterior drainage is always recommended. (Refer to report section for additional pictures.)

Since it was not raining at the time of inspection, any areas of collection along the front and right walls are not known. Recommend areas be monitored during a storm and further investigation and repairs by a licensed landscaping contractor if any drainage issues such as water that runs against, along or near a foundation wall or if any sizeable collections should develop which take excessively long to dissipate and remain soft and squishy, especially if they are close to the foundation.

OVERALL SUMMATION: Exterior drainage appears overall adequate, based on the inspection of the crawlspace, however is NOT robust where additional landscaping or drainage enhancements would be recommended. Drainage enhancements may include, but are not limited to some slight relandscaping as listed below.

A-Additional compacted soil against the front wall and/or a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard installed parallel to the wall which would direct water off to the far left or right. The left side would continue or connect to the wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression which was recommended along the top of the retaining wall in report section 1.3. Essentially one long wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression is recommended from where the retaining wall to the front right corner of the house.

B-Additional compacted soil against the right wall and/or a wide shallow v-shaped drainage depression in the yard installed parallel to the wall which would direct water off to the far rear.

ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any drainage or moisture intrusion issues that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the inspection and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected. Repair or drainage enhancement ideas are listed only as a courtesy and does not always infer that an actual problem exists where further investigation during a storm and by a licensed landscaping contractor(s) or engineer(s) along with any repairs deemed necessary, are always recommended. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed landscaping contractor or engineer and has no intent to supercede any of their conclusions and since opinions may vary it is always recommended, especially in any situations of disagreement, that multiple licensed landscaping contractors or engineers be contacted for an opinion.
1.5 WALKWAYS, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS, LANDSCAPING, RETAINING WALLS (Visible condition. Checking for proper water runoff away from the house, the landscape for presence of holes, sunken areas, bald spots, eroding areas, and tripping hazards, trees and vegetation clearances, and drainage weep holes or drains at the base of retaining walls.)
Comments: INSPECTED

PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS

Styles & Materials
FRONT CENTER PORCH:
RECESSED UNDER HOUSE ROOF
BRICK TILE SLAB FLOOR
1X5 WOOD COVERED CEILING
FRONT LEFT PORCH:
NO ROOF
2X6 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS
SPACED 24 INCHES APART
REAR COVERED DECK:
SLOPED FLAT ROOF
GRAVEL TAR AGGREGATE
4X4 WOOD ROOF POSTS
1X5 WOOD COVERED CEILING
4X6 WOOD DECK POSTS
2X8 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS
SPACED 16 INCHES APART
REAR OPEN WALKWAY DECK:
NO ROOF
STEEL PIPE DECK POSTS
2X8 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS
SPACED 24 INCHES APART
STEPS AND STAIRWAYS:
WOOD DECK STEPS
WOOD LEFT PORCH STEPS
WOOD BASEMENT STAIRS
WOOD LOFT ATTIC STAIRS
RAILINGS AND BANISTERS:
WOOD DECK BANISTERS
WOOD BASEMENT HAND-RAIL



Inspection Items
2.0 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-A small piece of the front center porch tile floor covering has broken off. (cosmetic)
2.1 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The triangular areas beside the brick chimney within the loft that are open which could be considered a safety hazard for small children where decorative type banisters are recommended, but not required.
2.2 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The loft stairway is missing a hand-rail which are always recommended. (safety)
2.3 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The majority of the Rear Deck Band is not attached properly to the wall or band of home. It should have 5/8 galvanized "Lag Screws" or "Carriage Bolts" approximately every 36 inches. Only a small right or garage side section has some through-bolts. Repairs or securement enhancements are recommended.
2.4 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The rear deck was pounced upon and was determined to still be structurally adequate with the exception of the banisters, however the wood members are weathered where cleaning with a "deck wash" and application of an exterior wood sealant are recommended.
2.5 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The top trim boards on the front left porch entry privacy wall are deteriorated where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to replacement of all deteriorated wood members.
2.6 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The screening material is deteriorated on one rear covered deck and front left porch entry aluminum storm doors.
2.7 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-A handle is missing on one rear covered deck aluminum storm door.
2.8 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2-The majority of the rear open walkway deck angled banisters and benches are aged and have become loose and detached from deterioration. Repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to strengthening with new bracing boards or more preferably total replacement of all banisters and benches.
2.9 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS
The 2x4 wood railing at the top of the left side covered deck steps is deteriorated and the banister along the steps is also loose. Replacement of top 2x4 and additional banister bracing boards are recommended.
2.10 PORCHES, DECKS, PATIOS, STEPS, STAIRS, RAILINGS, BANISTERS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
REAR ENCLOSED DECK: wood member deterioration

1,2,3-The wood post in the right corner (standing in back yard and looking at deck) supporting the roof is severely deteriorated from the floor to the roof along with some of the center perpendicular screening boards. Possible causes of this deterioration may include but are not limited to insect infiltration. A determination of whether area is active or inactive is beyond the scope of the inspection where further investigation by a licensed pest control contractor is recommended along with structural repairs by a licensed contractor which may include but are not to limited replacement of all deteriorated wood members.
2.11 PORCH (Visible condition of roof, eaves, gutters, attic, ventilation, columns, foundation, floor, coverings, storage closets.)
Comments: INSPECTED
2.12 PORCH (Visible condition and operation of doors, lights, switches, and outlets.)
Comments: INSPECTED
2.13 DECK (Visible condition. Checking roof, roof support structures, attic, ceilings, screens, gates, doors, if deck support columns are resting on concrete footers, and if deck is secured properly with lag bolts or a ledgerboard with metal joist brackets.)
Comments: INSPECTED
2.14 COMMON HALLWAYS AND CORRIDORS (Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, cabinets, lights, switches, outlets, heating, cooling.)
Comments: INSPECTED
2.15 STOOPS, STEPS, STAIRS, BANISTERS, AND RAILINGS (Visible condition. Checking for potential tripping hazards from variations in step riser heights, narrow tread steps, unlevel steps or steep stairs. Checking for adequate headroom.)
Comments: INSPECTED
2.16 SPACINGS BETWEEN ANY TWO RAILING BANISTERS OF 4 TO 5 INCHES OR LESS (Safety issue for children.)
Comments: INSPECTED

EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY

Styles & Materials
DOOR INFO:
5 HOUSE ENTRY DOORS
ALL ARE WOOD
ALL HAVE A DEADBOLT
HOUSE WINDOWS:
FIXED UPPERS
HOPPER LOWERS
1 KITCHEN DOUBLE-HUNG
SINGLE-PANE
SIDING MATERIAL:
PLYWOOD SHEET SIDING
SOFFIT/FASCIA MATERIAL:
WOOD
GUTTER MATERIAL:
ALUMINUM
FOUNDATION MATERIAL:
CONCRETE BLOCK
VIEWED ROOF FROM:
ROOF-LINE BY LADDER
WALK ENTIRE ROOF/USE LADDER
ROOF TYPE:
LEFT SIDE GABLE
RIGHT SIDE GABLE
2 REAR PERPENDICULAR GABLES
ROOF COVERING:
FIBERGLASS ASPHALT SHINGLES
LAYERS:
ONE
ROOF PENETRATIONS:
7 TOTAL PENETRATIONS
ESTIMATED ROOF AGE:
10 TO 12 YEARS
ROOF VENTILATION:
GABLE VENTS
2 GABLE VENT FANS
CHIMNEY(S):
ONE CHIMNEY
SKY LIGHT (S):
TWO
HOUSE DIMENSIONS:
30 WIDE X 25 DEEP (RIGHT)
20 WIDE X 30 DEEP (CENTER)
24 WIDE X 13 DEEP (LEFT)
1660 SQFT MAIN FLOOR
OTHER DIMENSIONS:
20 WIDE X 20 DEEP (GARAGE)
19 WIDE X 28 DEEP (BASEMENT)



Inspection Items
3.0 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
House siding, exterior window framing, overhead garage and entry door frames, and soffit and fascia are wood and subject to deterioration if not properly maintained. It is strongly recommended that all exterior wood be painted on a periodic basis. The whole point is to prevent moisture damage which leads to costly total replacement. The bottom six to twelve inches of wood door frames are notorious for rapid deterioration when not properly maintained. It is very important to at least once a year, and more if needed, to keep at least the bottom six to twelve inches caulked and painted. IT CAN NOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH THAT PERIODIC PAINTING OF ALL WOOD SURFACES IS A MUST!!! Whenever small cracks start to develop at the end of the boards, it is time to paint! (Maintenance tip.)
3.1 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-Chimney crown and mortar were poked and found structurally adequate and the flues are covered with a steel type rain cap. This is good!

GENERAL CHIMNEY INFORMATION: Chimney caps are probably the most inexpensive preventive measure that a homeowner can employ to prevent water penetration and damage to the chimney. Chimney caps have long been recognized as an important chimney safety and damage prevention component. Caps may be designed to cover a single flue, multiple flues, or entire chimney top. It is probably the best investment to protect the entire chimney crown. Deteriorated mortar joints are entry spots for water. Proper mortar joints have no gaps or missing mortar and are shaped in a way that diverts water out of the joint. When mortar deteriorates from exposure to weather it becomes much more absorbent. A common repair for mortar joints is called repointing or tuckpointing. In this process, the existing mortar joint is cut out and repacked with new mortar compound. Flashing is the seal between the roofing material/shingles and the chimney and prevents rainwater from running down the chimney into living spaces where it can rot interior walls, ceilings and wood members. A lot of chimneys have an L-type flashing that much be continually sealed where it connects to the brick. Counterflashing that overlaps the base or L-type flashing is always desired. The two-element flashing allows both the roof and chimney to expand and contract at their own rates without breaking the waterproof seal in either area. Your chimney system is an important part of your home heating system. For safer and more efficient operation, your chimney should be checked annually by a CSIA Certified or other licensed Chimney Sweep contractor and cleaned as needed.
3.2 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1-The ladder looking structure fastened to the front wall is loosely attached to the wall. Actual purpose is unknown, however it may have been meant for some type of climbing flower or plant growth?
3.3 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
The paint finish on some areas of siding is aged where heavily painting is recommended. (Maintenance tip.)
3.4 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Some of the fixed double windows are noticeably fogged from dried condensate between the double-panes which is also an indication of broken seals. Recommend further investigation by a licensed window contractor which may include but is not limited to window replacement(s). The fogged window locations are listed below.

-Two in the living room.
-Four in the dining room.
3.5 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Picture 6
Picture 7
Picture 8
Picture 9
Picture 10
Picture 11
Picture 12
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
SHINGLE AND FLAT GRAVEL AGGREGATE ROOF COVERINGS:

1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12-The main house shingle roof covering and flashing around the penetrations appear adequate with no loose or missing areas. The date stamps on the rubber boot flashing around the white vent pipes that pierce the roof are worn and unreadable, however the shingle roof is estimated to be from 10 to 12 years old. The left side sections of shingles are darker discolored from normal aging because they face north and receive less sunlight. The items listed below were observed during the inspection.

-Large piled sections of leaves and twigs were observed along the backside roof valleys and flat grave aggregate roof areas. Leaves hold or retain moisture causing premature aging.

-The open exposed sections of tar on the flat gravel aggregate sections over the rear enclosed deck, skylight room, and master bedroom porch has some spider web type cracking from aging.

Further investigation by a licensed roofing contractor of all flat gravel aggregate roof covering after removal of all leaves and twigs is recommended.
3.6 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2-Tree limbs are partially covering the areas of siding and roof covering around the house where trimming is recommended. This is important because they can retain moisture and cause premature siding and shingle aging.
3.7 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
Entry door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the threshold or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All entry door framing boards are flush with the threshold.

1-The lower edges of the outer trim boards on the rear basement entry door have some deterioration where repairs are recommended which may include but is not limited to the splicing in of new wood and heavily painting and caulking.
3.8 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
Overhead garage door framing is wood where it is always recommended that the lower edges be slightly above and not touch the concrete slab or be heavily caulked if they do make contact, because they can absorb water and become deteriorated over time. All overhead garage door framing boards are flush with the slab.

1-The lower several inches of the overhead garage door framing has become deteriorated where repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to the splicing in of new wood and heavily painting and caulking.
3.9 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-One window pane on the rear wall of the skylight room is broken where pane replacement by a licensed contractor is recommended.
3.10 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Comments: MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
SIDING AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS AREAS: wood member deterioration

The majority of the house siding and eaves areas are adequate and free of deterioration with the exception of the isolated areas listed below. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures. Repairs by a licensed contractor are recommended which may include but are not limited to the installation of new siding and the splicing in of new wood where needed and heavily painting. Areas are understood to be deteriorated from moisture unless specified otherwise.

1-A small 12 inch area of siding and trim boards to the left of the left rear enclosed deck entry aluminum storm door.
2-A 5ft bottom edge section of siding to the left of and another 4ft bottom edge section of siding to the right of the rear wall living room windows.
3-The end section of fascia or eaves boards above the rear enclosed porch in front of the master bedroom.
4-The lower edges of siding to the right of the front left entry door.
5-The backside fascia boards on the right side gable have small holes. Possible causes of this deterioration may include but are not limited to insect infiltration. A determination of whether area is active or inactive is beyond the scope of the inspection where further investigation by a licensed pest control contractor is recommended.
3.11 EXTERIOR DOORS, WINDOWS, SIDING, FOUNDATION, GUTTERS, ROOF, CHIMNEY
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Picture 6
Picture 7
Picture 8
Picture 9
Picture 10
Picture 11
Comments: MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
EXTERIOR WINDOWS: wood member deterioration

1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11-The majority of the paint finish on the windows, window framing, and window trim boards is aged with numerous peeled and missing areas and the specific areas listed below are mild to severely moisture deteriorated. Repairs by a licensed contractor are recommended, which may include but are not limited to replacement of all deteriorated wood members, then heavily painting. It is important to note that it may not be possible to simply splice in new wood members when dealing with windows where some new windows may need to be purchased. All areas are described by standing in the yard and looking at the house and by actual house room location. Areas are understood to be deteriorated from moisture unless specified otherwise.

-The lower sill area along the window to the left of the rear deck steps. (rear right bedroom)
-The trim boards along the top of the middle section of fixed windows along the rear open deck. (rear living room)
-The wood members of and around the section of casement windows along the rear open deck. (rear living room)
-The top trim board along the windows over the garage. (master bedroom)
-The top trim board along all the right side windows. (right side bedrooms)
-The wood members of and around the section of casement windows along the right side. (master bedroom)
-The lower sill area along the section of front center casement windows. (kitchen and dining room)

*****It is important to note that it appears that some of the moisture deteriorated areas above the windows was caused from the lack of adequate flashing. Normally a metal type flashing that fits under the siding and rests on top of the window wood members is present, which was observed not to present on this house, where installation upon repairs would be highly recommended.

*****It is also important to note that immediate repairs are recommended because this deterioration has allowed moisture to seep through the walls into the interior based on the amount of discolored and deteriorated plasterboard under the living room and dining room windows. Repairs to these areas are recommended after the exterior windows issues have been repaired. See pictures 10 and 11.
3.12 WINDOWS, SHUTTERS AND AWNINGS (Visible condition and checking for the presence and functionality of window flashing and operation of windows and window locks.)
Comments: INSPECTED
3.13 ENTRY DOORS, STORM DOORS, SECURITY DOORS, AND DOORBELL (Visible condition and operation, checking hardware, locks, coverings, frame, trim, weatherstripping, presence of deadbolts on all exterior doors, proper locking, opening, and closing of sliding glass doors, and the presence of a security dead-pin in all sliding glass doors.)
Comments: INSPECTED
3.14 FOUNDATION WALLS AND MORTAR JOINTS (Visible condition, checking for cracked, crumbled, loose, missing, eroded areas, or large gaps)
Comments: INSPECTED
3.15 EXTERIOR WALL COVERINGS, FLASHING,TRIM, AND CAULKING (Visible condition. A wall flashing is defined as a material used around angles or junctions on exterior walls to prevent water leakage.)
Comments: INSPECTED
3.16 HOUSE FRAMING (Visible condition, checking for any cracks developing outside of the house, cracks between a chimney and the exterior wall or any cracks running outward at an angle from the upper corners of windows and door frames.)
Comments: INSPECTED
3.17 OUTSIDE ACCESS TO HOUSE IS RODENT PROOF
Comments: INSPECTED
3.18 ROOF COVERING (Visible condition. Checking roof penetrations such as, roof vents, ridge vents, wind turbines, soffit vents, gable vents, chimneys, furnace flues, water heater flues, plumbing vents, skylights and any other penetrations. Checking flashings which are used to seal around roof penetrations and intersections. Checking rain caps on chimneys and flues.)
Comments: INSPECTED
3.19 SOFFIT, FASCIA, EAVES, GUTTERS, DOWNSPOUTS (Visible condition. Checking if gutters are provided where necessary, including porches, flat roofs, and dormers. Checking whether splasblocks are in place if underground piping is not used for rain gutter drainage.)
Comments: INSPECTED

ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR

Styles & Materials
ROOF STRUCTURE:
2X6 WOOD RAFTERS
PLYWOOD ROOF DECKING
COLLAR-TIE BRACING BOARDS
STRUT BRACING BOARDS
CEILING STRUCTURE:
2X6 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS
RAFTER SPACING:
16 INCHES
JOIST SPACING:
16 INCHES
INSULATION TYPE:
FIBERGLASS
INSULATION INCHES:
8 TO 10 INCHES
R- VALUE:
R-22 TO R-30
ATTIC INFO:
LEFT SIDE SEPARATE ATTIC
RIGHT SIDE SEPARATE ATTIC
NO DECKING FOR STORAGE
NO SWITCHED LIGHTS



Inspection Items
4.0 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Picture 6
Picture 7
Picture 8
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-The wood members throughout the attic areas appeared free of major moisture discoloration and deterioration. The insulation under readily accessible roof penetrations was scooped away in order to inspect the plasterboard ceilings. Overall attic construction is adequate and robust with 2x6 rafters, 2x6 ceiling joists, strut and collar-tie bracing boards, and the majority of the rafters are properly aligned onto the ridge boards. This is good!

ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for any leakage within the attic that may be uncovered during a future storm because it was not raining at time of the attic inspection and only readily accessible areas are inspected and any conclusions are based solely on only what was inspected.
4.1 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
GENERAL RECESSED LIGHT INFORMATION:

Basically recessed can lights consist of the recessed can housing, a lamp, and trim. They are required to be thermally protected with an internal thermostat switch. The power is cut if the temperature gets above a certain temperature, usually around 194 degrees. Once the temperature drops below a certain temperature, usually 184 degrees, the switch resets. However this does not guarantee complete safety. There are two types of fixtures, IC(insulated ceiling) type and Non-IC type. IC type fixture are usually safety rated for insulation. Non-IC rated fixtures have a warning label, "Warning, Risk of fire, Non-type IC only, Do not install insulation within 3 inches of sides or wiring compartment." This applies to all insulation because it retains heat causing items to possibly catch fire.

Non-IC rated fixtures can not have insulation within 3 inches. IC rated fixtures are permitted to be covered with insulation. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not hunt for recessed can lights that are completely buried under insulation and are not readily accessible. Note that there are some circumstances where lighting is permitted to be covered with insulation when special trims are used. This is normally stated on the fixture by the manufacturer.

Opinions on this issue sometime vary among insulation installation contractors, however ACE Home Inspections, LLC has previously called several recessed light manufacturers, who all stated that whenever the sticker is present stating "keep all insulation 3 inches away" it MUST be kept 3 inches away and if a warning sticker is not present to check the interior side for any warning information along with a manufacturer and model number.
4.2 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-Insulation with a resistance to heat ratio of around R-30 was observed throughout the attic. This is good!
4.3 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1,2,3-Overall attic ventilation appears adequate with, soffit vents, gable vents, and two functional gable ventilation fans. It is important to note however that both of these fans must be turned on manually with house interior located wall switches. Automatic operation through the use of thermostatic controllers is always recommended, but is not required. This would allow them turn on and off automatically based on the interior attic temperature. (Maintenance tip.)
4.4 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
It does not appear that the two bathroom exhaust fans vent properly to the exterior which is always recommended. Fans completely covered or buried under insulation can cause the surrounding plasterboard to become deteriorated and also add heat to an already hot summer attic. Inexpensive kits purchased at major home centers contain flex hose that can be installed from the fan to a soffit or gable vent.
4.5 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3-About a half dozen small electrical junction boxes were observed in the right and left side attic areas. It is always recommended that all junction boxes have a proper cover, regardless of location. (safety)
4.6 ATTIC, ROOF INTERIOR (Visible condition. Checking attic insulation, exposed wiring, lights and water pipes. Checking to see that all attic areas are accessible, all exposed sections of chimney in attic are free of soot and creosote leakage, that soffit vents are not covered with insulation, and attic ventilation vent screening which keeps animals out)
Comments: INSPECTED
4.7 GAS FLUE AND CHIMNEY FIRESTOPPING (Visible condition. Firestopping refers to size of the hole made in the ceiling and roof so as to maintain the proper clearance from a hot metal flue pipe or chimney brick.)
Comments: INSPECTED
4.8 DO ALL FLUES AND VENTS PRESENT IN ATTIC TERMINATE TO THE EXTERIOR (Water heater flue, furnace flue, metal chimney flue, plumbing vents, bathroom fan vents, range hood vent, dryer vent, etc...)
Comments: INSPECTED
4.9 RAFTERS, DECKING, JOISTS OR TRUSSES (Visible condition. Check for rafters pulling away from ridge board, rot, cracks, splits, cut, altered or missing supports.)
Comments: INSPECTED
4.10 IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE ROOF LEAKS OR DETERIORATION (Flashing refers to materials, usually metal, that join parts of the house to the roof. Common places where roof leaks occur are flashings around chimneys, metal gas flues, plumbing vents, turbines, dormers, valleys, or any other roof penetrations or intersections.)
Comments: INSPECTED
4.11 IS ATTIC FREE OF VISIBLE CONDENSATION OR MOISTURE DAMAGE DUE TO IMPROPER VENTILATION (Often what appears to be a leak is in fact condensation, and a sign of inadequate ventilation. Proper attic ventilation reduces heat in summer and prevents condensation in winter. It allows air to carry off water vapor before it can condense and cause moisture damage.)
Comments: INSPECTED
4.12 INSTALLED MECHANICAL VENTILATION SYSTEMS (Visible condition and operation of power ventilators and fans)
Comments: INSPECTED

KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS

Styles & Materials
REFRIGERATOR:
JC PENNEY
AGED BUT FUNCTIONAL
MEASURED REFRIGERATOR TEMP:
38 DEG
RANGE/COOKTOP BRAND:
JC PENNEY
RANGE/COOKTOP ENERGY:
ELECTRIC
OVEN:
NORMAL UNDER COOKTOP
OVEN ENERGY:
ELECTRIC
BUILT-IN MICROWAVE:
NONE
RANGE HOOD:
FUNCTIONAL
HOOD EXHAUST:
RECYCLED EXHAUST
DISHWASHER:
NONE
DISPOSER:
NONE
TRASH COMPACTORS:
NONE
INTERIOR CEILING MATERIALS:
PLASTERBOARD
INTERIOR WALL MATERIALS:
PLASTERBOARD
INTERIOR FLOOR MATERIALS:
CARPET
VINYL
CERAMIC TILE
CONCRETE
BATHROOMS:
2 FULL
BATHROOM INFO:
1 METAL TUB
WITH CERAMIC TILE SURROUND
1 METAL TUB/SHOWER
WITH CERAMIC TILE SURROUND
BATHROOM INFO:
FORMICA COVERED WOOD VANITIES
KITCHEN SINK:
DUAL BASIN STAINLESS SINK
REFRIGERATOR OPENING WIDTH:
OPEN END-ANY SIZE
REFRIGERATOR OPENING HEIGHT:
OPEN - FLOOR TO CEILING
OTHER INTERIOR INFO:
16 FT HIGH LIVING ROOM



Inspection Items
5.0 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2,3-The stove and oven elements are functional. This is good!
5.1 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2,3,4-Each bathroom and kitchen sink basin was filled in order to pressurize the piping to inspect for leakage.
5.2 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1-The right side hallway bathroom sink vanity formica countertop has slightly settled where filling gaps with caulk is recommended. (Maintenance tip.)
5.3 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1-The left wall has what appears to have been a former opening for an a/c unit.
5.4 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1,2-The ceiling in the front entry and master bedroom entry area has some small cracks from minor settlement. Recommend monitoring for any additional cracks after cosmetic repairs have been made. (cosmetic)
5.5 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3-The piping under the sinks was free of observed leakage. This is good, however the metal drain piping is original and has aged with some areas of heavy corrosion where upgrading with new metal or PVC in the near future is recommended, but is not required.
5.6 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Picture 6
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
The house ceilings are free of discoloration from leakage, with the exception of the items listed below. These areas of previous leakage may have been repaired when the last roof covering was installed, however this is an unknown since it was not raining at the time of the inspection. Owner disclosure of below listed areas along with monitorization, checking for any dampness, after a heavy storm, and cosmetic repairs are recommended which may include but are not limited to painting ceilings. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures.

1,2-A 6in x 20in area of light brown discoloration along the left side of fireplace directly under the loft most likely from previous chimney flashing issues?
3,4,5-The 1x5 wood ceiling boards along both sides of the rear deck door frame are stained and discolored from previous roof leakage.
6-A 15in circular barely noticeable area of staining on the dining room ceiling. The loft is directly above where this is an unknown?
5.7 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3-House carpets are stained from where previous furniture sat, dirty, some seaming has pulled loose, and carpet is rippled in left side front entry area where overall carpet evaluation by a licensed carpet contractor is recommended which could include repair and cleaning or replacement.
5.8 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
The finish on the interior window sills is aged where refinishing is recommended.
5.9 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-A total of 12 ceramic tiles are missing on the ceiling above the master bathroom shower stall and the corners have small cracks which need to be caulked.
5.10 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-One small cabinet cover is missing under the kitchen sink counter.
5.11 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-There are numerous small nails and holes in all the walls from previous hanging items and wear and tear. (cosmetic)
5.12 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS
The front right bedroom, kitchen, and rear deck ceiling fans have significant wobble on high speed where proper balancing or alignment is recommended.
5.13 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS
The kitchen sink vegetable spray wand does not function.
5.14 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS
The kitchen cabinets are loose where they mount to the wall. They appear to be attached only along the top where additional lower screws are recommended.
5.15 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed air quality, odor, or environmental expert and makes no conclusions as to any of the homes various odors or air quality other than noting any obvious apparent markings on floor coverings from normal wear and tear or from animals such as dogs, cats, or rodents. ACE Home Inspections, LLC always recommends used carpets be properly cleaned by a licensed carpet contractor and an air quality or environmental expert be contacted if client recognizes or concludes themselves that any apparent odors are present, before closing. ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not dismantle or open any non readily accessible areas such as air vents or ductwork and does not move objects or furniture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects of any kind such as any cracked tile or torn and soiled carpet under furniture. ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and lists all conditions at the time of inspection, where the inspection is like a snapshot in time. For example a component proved to be in working order at time of inspection, could be malfunctioning soon after moving in at no fault of ACE Home Inspections, LLC.
5.16 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS
The right bathroom commode tank runs constantly after flushed where repairs are recommended.
5.17 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
ACE Home Inspections, LLC only tests a random sampling of house smoke alarms always recommends that ALL smoke alarms be tested and replaced if found defective before moving in. It is always recommended that a local fire department be contacted to determine where smoke alarms should be installed since each jurisdiction may have different standards.
5.18 KITCHEN, BATHROOMS, INTERIOR ROOMS
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
ACE Home Inspections, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees. A home inspection is like a snap shot in time where component conditions are noted at the time of inspection. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not responsible for component conditions occurring after the time of the inspection.
5.19 KITCHEN (Visible condition of ceiling, walls, cabinets, shelving, countertops, plumbing. Checking that all outlets within six feet of sink have GFCI protection, and there are separate water shut-off valves for faucet, dishwasher, and ice-maker.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.20 KITCHEN (Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, lights, switches, outlets, sink, faucet, spray nozzle and all appliances staying with house: range, oven, microwave, vent hood, dishwasher, disposal, refrigerator or any other appliances. Checking that sink and dishwasher drain properly, and hot and cold water pressure, volume, and temperature are adequate.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.21 RANGE HOOD VENTING SYSTEM (If range hood is nonvented type, is there a clean charcoal or aluminum filter in place. A nonvented hood is for filtering odors and grease vapors and will not remove heat or steam like a vented range hood. A non-vented range hood is identified by louvers on the front of the hood and does not vent to exterior as a vented hood does.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.22 ARE FAUCETS FREE OF HAMMERING AND VIBRATING NOISES WHEN TURNED ON/OFF RAPIDLY (This occurs when water flowing in the pipe comes to an abrupt stop, introducing shock and vibrations that can damage pipes or fittings. It is caused by improper sized pipes and can be fixed with an air chamber or antiknock coil which provides an air cushion to absorb shock.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.23 DOES SINK DRAIN INTO A P-TRAP UNDER THE SINK (A trap is needed to provide a water seal that blocks sewer gases from seeping back into house. Some homes still have S-type traps that do not always vent properly. If a sucking and gurgling noise occurs after almost all the water has drained, the water seal has been lost. All S-traps should be converted to P-traps.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.24 DOES SINK HAVE AN AIR GAP TO PREVENT BACK SIPHONAGE (Simply speaking, the air gap prevents the dirty sink water from being sucked back into the clean water supply pipes through the end of the faucet if the sink should overflow. There should be a gap of at least 1 inch between the end of the faucet where the water exits and the flood rim of the sink.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.25 INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible condition of ceilings and walls.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.26 INTERIOR ROOMS (Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floors, lights, switches, outlets)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.27 BATHROOM (Visible condition of ceiling, walls, cabinets, countertops, and caulking.)
Comments: INSPECTED
5.28 BATHROOM (Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floor, cabinet doors, drawers, exhaust fans, lights, switches, outlets, sinks, tubs, showers, and commodes. Checking presence of cut-off valves for faucets and commodes, proper draining of sinks, tubs, showers and commodes, use of P-traps and not old S-traps, proper air-gap for sinks, tubs, and hand-held shower wands to prevent back siphonage, faucets for improper hammering and vibrating noises when turned on/off rapidly, adequacy of hot and cold water pressure, volume, and temperature, exhaust fans for proper venting to building exterior and outlet GFCI protection.)
Comments: INSPECTED

PLUMBING (Main, Exterior, Water Heater, Washer, Dryer)

Styles & Materials
PLUMBING SUPPLY:
COPPER
DISTRIBUTION:
COPPER
PLUMBING WASTE:
WHITE PVC(polyvinyl chloride) PIPING
WASTE SYSTEM:
UNKNOWN
WATER SOURCE:
PUBLIC/COUNTY
WATER HEATER BRAND/DATE:
AO SMITH
DATED MARCH 2001
WATER HEATER LOCATION:
CRAWLSPACE
WATER HEATER POWER SOURCE:
ELECTRIC
CAPACITY:
50 GAL
WATER FILTERS:
NONE OBSERVED
DRYER POWER SOURCE:
220 ELECTRIC
WATER CUT-OFF:
AT STREET
BATHROOM SINK PLUMBING:
METAL DRAIN PIPING
COPPER WATER CONNECTIONS
KITCHEN SINK PLUMBING:
METAL DRAIN PIPING
METAL TUBING WATER LINES



Inspection Items
6.0 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-The natural gas is a 2 psi system, which utilizes a separate regulator for each gas appliance. Gas appliances within the house are the furnace.
6.1 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
Whenever gas is present, properly installed carbon monoxide detection is ALWAYS recommended, but not required, at each appliance. Carbon monoxide hovers closest to the ground where each detector should be installed no higher than midways up a wall and should be periodically tested and replaced if faulty. (safety tip.)
6.2 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-The electric water heater is functional. This is good!
6.3 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
There was no potable water expansion tank observed which are always recommended but are NOT required. (Maintenance tip.)

ADDITIONAL EXPANSION TANK INFORMATION:

A potable water expansion tank is always recommended, but not required between the cold water line and the water pressure reducing valve. It is designed to absorb thermal expansion and to maintain balanced pressure throughout the potable water supply system. Heated water expands and in a domestic hot water system the system may be closed when isolated by a pressure reducing valve. Provisions should be made for this expansion. The expansion tank absorbs the increased volume of water created when the hot water storage tank is heated and keeps the system pressure below the relief setting of the T & P relief valve. It is a pre-pressurized steel tank with an expansion membrane that prevents contact of water with the air in the tank. This prevents loss of air to the water and ensures a longer system life. The tank has a polypropylene liner, butyl diaphragm and a field adjustable pre-charge. Refer to sample picture.
6.4 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-----UPGRADE-----The simplest backflow protection is the simple air gap between the end of a sink faucet where the water exits and the flood rim of the sink as explained in the bathroom section. Another place where backflow protection is needed is on outside hose bibs or faucets. This involves purchasing a relatively inexpensive backflow preventer that easily screws on to the end of the faucet that will allow water to flow in only one direction, out of your faucet. This prevents any contaminated water in your hose from being sucked back through the house water supply. It is recommended that all hose bibs have a backflow preventer such as one shown in picture 1.
6.5 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-----UPGRADE-----Washer hoses that are original black hose type are susceptible to sudden leaking. It is always recommended, but not required, that new wire braided permanent type hoses be installed like the ones shown. These can be purchased at major home and appliance centers and are relatively inexpensive. (Maintenance tip.).
6.6 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Overall house water pressure is very low where further investigation by a licensed plumbing contractor is recommended. The valve was observed to be in the full-on position within the water meter basin.
6.7 PLUMBING SYSTEM
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The water heater TPR valve has a 3/4 inch sized extension pipe, however it falls short of being within 6 inches of the floor. Proper extension pipes are always recommended for all water haters, wherever they are located. A slightly longer TPR extension pipe is recommended. (safety)

ADDITIONAL TPR VALVE INFORMATION:

Water heaters have a TPR valve (Temperature Pressure Relief) or T&P valve, which is a safety device that releases pressure if the pressure or the temperature reach an unsafe level. All tank type units must have a TPR valve, otherwise they could blow up. The purpose of the TPR valve is to provide an important safety mechanism that allows for the immediate discharge of excess temperature and pressure that builds up inside the tank as the water is heated. Due to the scalding potential of the discharge from the TPR valve, the outlet from the valve should be piped to a safe area. Typically TPR valve discharges are piped down to within 6 inches of the floor or outside of the dwelling at near ground level. A TPR Valve that has been fitted with a discharge pipe that is smaller than the size of the valve outlet is a common defect that is strictly prohibited because smaller discharge pipes restrict the flow of the pressurized water released by the valve. This creates a dangerous bottleneck, building-up even more pressure at the point of discharge that can cause the tank to explode. Personal injury (or death) and property damage may result. The discharge pipe must be made of a material that's rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually : inch). It must terminate 6"-12" above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap.
6.8 WATER HEATER, PTV - PRESSURE TEMPERATURE VALVE, PTV DRAIN PIPING (Visible condition. Checking presence of a drain pan under unit if installed in attic or room over a living area, and presence of a cold water inlet water cut-off valve.)
Comments: INSPECTED
6.9 ELECTRIC WATER HEATER EXTERIOR TANK WIRING AND ELEMENT COVERS (Visible condition.)
Comments: INSPECTED
6.10 EXPOSED INTERIOR WATER PIPING (Visible condition, looking for leaks, corrosion, sagging sections, and valves where it enters house and stops at the point where it enters rooms where it then will be described in each rooms description in this report.)
Comments: INSPECTED
6.11 EXTERIOR HOSE FAUCETS, WATER PRESSURE, WATER VOLUME, WATER DRAINS (Visible condition and operation. Checking for presence of faucet backflow preventers.)
Comments: INSPECTED
6.12 CLOTHES WASHER WATER CONNECTIONS, DRAIN PIPE, AND HOSES (Visible condition.)
Comments: INSPECTED
6.13 ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYER OUTLET OR GAS CLOTHES DRYER CONNECTION (Visible condition. Checking dryer exhaust vent for exterior building termination and exterior cover with functional flap.)
Comments: INSPECTED

ELECTRICAL (Service, Interior Distribution Panels, Exterior)

Styles & Materials
SERVICE DROP TO HOUSE:
BELOW GROUND
IN CONDUIT
MAIN PANEL TYPE:
POWER SWITCH DISCONNECT
CARTRIDGE FUSES
WIRING METHODS:
1/0 AWG SERVICE ENTRY
MAIN HOUSE POWER DISCONNECT:
RATED 100 AMP
IN MAIN PANEL
CUTS ALL POWER
MAIN HOUSE PANEL CAPACITY:
100 AMP
MAIN HOUSE PANEL LOCATION:
GARAGE
MAIN HOUSE PANEL MANUFACTURER:
SQUARE D
SUB-PANEL A LOCATION:
GARAGE
SUB-PANEL A CAPACITY:
200 AMP
SUB-PANEL A TYPE:
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
SUB-PANEL A MANUFACTURER:
ITE
SUB-PANEL A BREAKERS:
SWD
15 AND 20 AMP CIRCUIT TYPE:
COPPER



Inspection Items
7.0 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect lighting controlled by timers, and photo or motion type detectors and only tests a random sampling of the exterior lighting.
7.1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2,3,4-The main and sub electrical panels appeared free of moisture discoloration, corrosion, and deterioration. This is good! Please see rest of electrical section for all items inspected.
7.2 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1,2,3,4,5-Readily accessible outlets were tested with a SureTest outlet tester with the majority found to have proper voltage and grounding.

-----UPGRADE-----There were no GFCI protected outlets, which was most likely NOT required at the time of construction, however is always recommended, as a safety upgrade.

-----UPGRADE-----There were no AFCI protected bedroom outlets, which was NOT required at the time of construction, however is always recommended, as a safety upgrade.

Please read general GFCI and AFCI information below.

GENERAL GFCI AND AFCI INFORMATION:

A GFCI or Ground-Fault-Circuit Interrupter is a device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device. Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current to ground has a value in the range of 4ma (milli-amps) to 6ma (milli-amps). Remember that breakers are designed to protect only the wiring and GFCI's are designed to protect people against electrical shock. It is always recommended that kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink, bathroom outlets, unfinished basement or crawlspace areas, garage, exterior, hot tubs, saunas, whirlpool tubs, or any outlets residing on or by any body of water be upgraded to GFCI type outlets by a licensed electrical contractor.

Starting January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code, Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125 volts, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault circuit interrupter. They may eventually be required elsewhere, but for now just in bedrooms because a CPSC study showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits. The AFCI - arc-fault-circuit-interrupter will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker.

There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults: whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard.
7.3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1-The house appears to have some sort of owner installed security system which are beyond the scope of the inspection.
7.4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Some electrical outlets are loose such as over the garage workbench where they move all around whenever a plug is inserted or removed. Recommend all be inspected and secured.
7.5 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2-All electrical outlets are 3-prong and grounded with the exception of one along the rear open deck and the two outlets in the skylight room. This should not be expected where grounded plugs were most likely required at the time of construction since all others are grounded. These outlets have the proper voltage and are functional but ungrounded. It is always advisable to have grounded outlets. Computers are very sensitive devices, and commonly experience data corruption in non-grounded environments. Ungrounded outlets pose a safety hazard and are in violation of the building and national wiring codes.

*****It is recommended, since it was most likely required at the time of construction, that a licensed electrical contractor upgrade all ungrounded outlets. It is also important to note that there may be other ungrounded outlets since not all outlets were tested due to some owner stored items where testing and repairs after present owner has moved and before moving in is always recommended.
7.6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-Only one ground wire was found to leave the main panel most likely to an exterior ground rod behind the retaining wall beside the meter. The electrical system should be grounded with both a ground rod and to the copper water pipes. It is suggested but not required, that the system also be grounded to the water pipes. Water pipes are something to be grounded and are usually not intended to be an actual system ground. Opinions by licensed electricians on this issue varies between safe and unsafe. It is also important to note that just because a ground wire to the water pipes was not located does not necessarily mean that it does not exist where a licensed electrical contractor is recommended for further investigation or an opinion and to correct if deemed necessary.
7.7 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The sub-panel was found to have the ground and neutral wires on the same bar. The main panel which is also the main disconnect is located beside this sub-panel.. All sub-panels should have the neutral (white) wires separated from the ground (bare) wires. Mixing these on the same bar allows the possible potential for voltage to be present on the grounding system. Opinions by licensed electrical contractors on this panel issue varies between safe and unsafe. I recommend you consult one for an opinion and correct if necessary. (safety)
7.8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-One breaker on the right side of the garage located sub-panel has two attached wires. This is referred to as "double-tapping" and is usually no allowed and considered a fire hazard. Further investigation and repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended which may include but is not limited to moving one wire to a newly installed breaker.

7.9 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3,4-The outlets tested below were found to have no power where further investigation and repair by a licensed electrical contractor is recommended.

-One rear open deck outlet.
-Two outlets in the front right bedroom.
-One outlet in the living room and another in the dining room, both near the front entry area.
-One outlet attached to the bottom of the main electrical panel in the garage.
7.10 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The front left entry porch light has a broken glass pane.
7.11 EXTERIOR LIGHTS, SWITCHES, OUTLETS (Visible condition and operation)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.12 SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE (Visible condition of cable, splices, house connection, porcelain insulators, mast, masthead or gooseneck, conduit and if limbs or vines are in the way. Service is run aerially overhead or buried underground. The home owner's responsibility starts after cable splice where aerial feed is connected to the house, and for a buried feed at the meter.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.13 METER BASE TO PANEL (Visible condition of base, how its attached to house, all cables and connectors, look for illegal wire taps running to another panel or device which could severely overload the service utility drop and meter base, and does meter base amp rating closely match the fuse or circuit breaker panel amp rating.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.14 PANELS, FUSE BOXES, AND SUB-PANELS (Visible condition. Checking panels for proper circuit or fuse labeling, all circuit breakers same brand name as panel, one main breaker or disconnect that cuts all power to house. Check that all wires to single-pole breakers are colored black and not white.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.15 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUND (Visible condition. A ground wire bleeds stray voltages to ground and current should not flow continuously in this wire. A ground wire from the neutral/grounding bus bar in main panel runs to a grounding electrode or rod. There should also be a ground wire from the main panel neutral/grounding bus bar to metal water pipes. Water pipes should be voltage free. Check water pipes for presence of voltage.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.16 PANEL BONDING STRAP (Visible condition. A bonding strap or panel bond, is required in every main panel to connect the neutral/grounding bus bar to the panel frame so that the metal panel can't shock you if a live wire touches it.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.17 ARE PANEL FILLER PLATES IN PLACE WITH NONE MISSING (Filler plates are little knockouts that are removed from panel front if breakers are installed. If no breaker was installed, this open spot is where someone could reach in and touch a hot spot.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.18 ARE LOCATIONS OF PANELS AND SUB-PANELS READILY ACCESSIBLE (A countertop or workbench directly in front of panel makes it not readily accessible. A shorter person won't be able to reach and shut-off a breaker in an emergency.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.19 IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO EACH SERVICE ENTRY CABLE LUG IN MAIN PANEL (This is where the cable from meter connects into panel. Other wires, called illegal taps, on these two lugs are left without overcurrent protection. Don't confuse an illegal tap with surge-protection wiring where two small wires feed into main lugs and go to a small lightning-surge arrestor.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.20 IS THERE ONLY ONE WIRE TO EACH BREAKER SCREW, NEUTRAL OR GROUND BUS SCREW, OR FUSE (Multiple wires are a sign of an overloaded panel and are dangerous because the wires can work loose from vibration and become a fire hazard. There is an exception to the rule: Square D, type-QO, size 15, 20, 30 amp breakers are listed for up to two 10 gauge wires.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.21 ARE ALL WIRES TO EACH FUSE OR CIRCUIT BREAKER SIZED PROPERLY (This occurs if undersize wire is used with oversize breakers or fuses. This is critical so that whatever load is connected to the circuit breaker will be properly protected.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.22 ARE ALL WIRES ON 15 0R 20 AMP CIRCUITS COPPER AND NOT SINGLE STRAND ALUMINUM (Aluminum wired homes built from 1965 to 1972 have had numerous problems with electrical connections to receptacles and switches.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.23 IS PANEL FREE OF ANY WATER DAMAGE (The signs of moisture damage are brown iron stains and white corrosion on breakers and hot tabs inside panel.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.24 IS PANEL FREE OF ANY DETERIORATION (Visible condition looking for signs of arcing, burn marks, blistering, or discoloration. If breaker wire connection has overheated, usually because it became loose, there will be discolored or burned insulation.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.25 ARE SUB-PANEL GROUNDS ISOLATED FROM NEUTRALS (A sub-panels most common use is to provide a secondary panel some distance from the main service panel. In any sub-panel, grounds and neutrals must be kept separate from each other.)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.26 ARE APPROPRIATE OUTLETS GFCI PROTECTED (A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter is a safety device that senses any shock hazard and interrupts the flow of electricity in the circuit. Receptacles requiring GFCIs are bathrooms, kitchen countertops, wet bar sinks, garages, pools, spa lights, and any outdoors below 6'6".)
Comments: INSPECTED
7.27 WERE A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER OF OUTLETS TESTED (Verify proper outlet operation with a Suretest tester that tests for proper wiring, reversed polarity, voltage drop, ground impedance, Ground-to-Neutral voltage, line voltage, high resistance grounds, and false or bootleg grounds. The tester also verifies GFCI, ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets.
Comments: INSPECTED

HEATING SYSTEM

Styles & Materials
HEAT FOR:
MAIN LEVEL
LOCATION:
BASEMENT
FUEL SOURCE:
NATURAL GAS
HEAT TYPE:
FORCED AIR
5 BURNER PORTS
BRAND:
TRANE
MANUFACTURED:
DATED 08/1991
IGNITION SYSTEM:
ELECTRONIC AUTO PILOT
MEASURED SUPPLY TEMP:
133 DEG
DUCTWORK:
METAL RECTANGULAR
INSULATED ROUND



Inspection Items
8.0 HEATING SYSTEM
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2-The natural gas heating unit is functional and the flame characteristics are good as shown in picture, indicating proper combustion. The burner compartments and control areas appeared clean and all vent piping adequate. Heating unit is dated 1991, making it about 16 years old where it is nearing the end of its average life span. Annual heating system service by a licensed heating and air contractor is always recommended. (Maintenance tip.)

Visit this web link for a general idea on how long should the components and systems in your home last.

<http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/10382.shtml>
8.1 HEATING SYSTEM
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
The furnace has a SWGII-4HD sidewall PowerVenter and vent damper type MG1 made by The Field Controls Co. These type units are normally designed and installed to obtain a higher overall BTU and furnace efficiency.

The testing of draft control units are beyond the scope of the inspection. Additional information can be obtained from the manufacturer by visiting http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/46522400.pdf or by calling 252-522-3031. It is always recommended it be inspected each time the heating system is serviced. (Maintenance tip.)

FIELD CONTROLS 5" MG-1 BAROMETRIC DRAFT CONTROL

For Gas Applications

A double-acting control for gas-fired furnaces and boilers is widely used for conversion burner installations, gas draft-induced appliance operation with mechanical draft inducers, or sidewall power venters. It is also recommended for use on gas atmospheric appliances where a draft hood cannot be installed, and can improve combustion stability and draft on many gas atmospheric installations with venting problems.

The MG-1 provides precise, accurate control of drafts at levels higher than permitted by a standard draft diverter, which is a frequent requirement with gas. Because it is double-acting, it opens out to relieve positive vent system pressures as low as .01". Draft adjustments using weights are simple and accurate from .01" to .1".

FIELD CONTROLS SWG SIDEWALL POWER VENTER (For sidewall venting of gas and oil fired equipment)

Gas and oil heating appliances generate heat through the combustion of fuel. The heat is transferred through the heat exchanger and distributed to the conditioned space. The products of combustion, however, must be vented safely out of the structure. In a conventional chimney, venting is achieved by the natural lifting action of the hot combustion gas. New, efficient systems absorb more of the heat in the heat exchanger and produce lower temperature vent gas. Lower temperature gas does not rise as quickly or as reliably as in older, less efficient systems. Power venting or sidewall venting is more economical and safer than chimney venting. A power venter uses a motorized blower to vent the products of combustion. A power venter is interlocked with the appliance to ensure that proper draft is achieved before the appliance burner is activated.

The SWG Power Venter is the safest, most efficient power venter available today.

Patented SWG Power Venters are ETL and cETL listed for all LP gas, natural gas, or oil-fired heating equipment. The SWG combines the motor, blower, and vent hood in one complete, easy to install unit. The SWG mounts on the outside of the building and pulls the combustion gases from the appliance through the outside wall utilizing 100% negative pressure.
Benefits of the SWG Power Venter include:
� 100% negative pressure in the vent pipe for maximum safety.
� Standard galvanized pipe can be used instead of expensive stainless steel.
� No need to seal vent pipe joints, saving time and money.
� Significantly longer vent lengths than positive pressure, direct vent systems.
� The SWG is recommended by major heating appliance manufacturers.

The SWG must be sized to match the appliance or appliances input firing rate. Most firing rates are published in the manufacturer�s installation manual. SWGs must be installed with a CK Control Kit to ensure proper listing and safe, efficient venting.

This information was obtained from the manufacturer and was provided as a courtesy in order to gain a general understanding of the product where it is NOT intended to be an exact portrayal of the specific equipment installed in the house.



8.2 HEATING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-The vent air from the furnace was tested and found free of carbon monoxide after operating the furnace over a period of time. This is good!
8.3 HEATING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
Whenever gas is present, properly installed carbon monoxide detection is ALWAYS recommended, but not required, at each appliance. Carbon monoxide hovers closest to the ground where each detector should be installed no higher than midways up a wall and should be periodically tested and replaced if faulty. (safety tip.
8.4 HEATING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the ductwork for the heating and cooling system. An initial move-in and periodic ductwork cleaning by a licensed contractor is always recommended, but not required.
8.5 INSTALLED HEATING EQUIPMENT (Visible condition and check presence of conditioned air source in all rooms, furnace blower free of any excess noise or vibration, and return air filter is present and clean.)
Comments: INSPECTED
8.6 FLUE PIPE AND VENTING (Visible condition checking pipe rise, diameter, junction fit, screws, and clearances. A properly vented gas system exhausts combustion products to exterior and provides adequate oxygen for combustion.)
Comments: INSPECTED
8.7 COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY (Combustion is a chemical reaction that occurs when fuel gases combine with oxygen and ignite. Visual inspection of flame characteristics is a good indicator of air/gas mixture problems that cause incomplete combustion.)
Comments: INSPECTED
8.8 WAS HEAT EXCHANGER TEST PROCEDURE DONE (This procedure ONLY applies to forced-air gas furnaces that use a blower to distribute heat. Procedure: Check the flame with blower off, then with blower on. If the main burner characteristics were normal with the blower off, but change or the flame lifts from the burner ports, the heat exchanger MAY be faulty.)
Comments: INSPECTED
8.9 WAS GAS FURNACE AREA CHECKED WITH SNIFFER AND FOUND FREE OF LEAKS
Comments: INSPECTED
8.10 WAS A TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT SUPPLY AND RETURN (Typical furnace operating temperatures are: NATURAL GAS: 130-140 degrees, OIL/PROPANE: 125-135 degrees, ELECTRIC: 110-120 degrees, HEAT PUMP: 95-100 degrees.)
Comments: INSPECTED
8.11 DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS (Visible condition, checking fans, pumps, exterior components of ducts and piping, insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan coil units and convectors)
Comments: INSPECTED
8.12 THERMOSTAT (Visible condition, checking if, level on wall, loose, equipment turns on/off from thermostat controls.)
Comments: INSPECTED

COOLING SYSTEM

Styles & Materials
COOLING FOR:
MAIN LEVEL
COOLING SYSTEM TYPE:
CENTRAL
MEASURED TEMP AT SUPPLY:
48 DEG
MEASURED TEMP AT RETURN:
70 DEG
CENTRAL AIR INSIDE UNIT:
CAC/BDP
DATED 07/2001
3.5 TON EVAPORATOR COIL
CENTRAL AIR OUTSIDE UNIT:
CARRIER
DATED 20TH WEEK OF 1995
3 TON CONDENSER COIL



Inspection Items
9.0 COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
The house has a central cooling system which is sometimes referred to as a "split system" which has an exterior condenser coil unit and an interior evaporator coil unit.
9.1 COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-Exterior cooling unit is level on a proper base. This is good! The difference between the measured supply temperature and measured return temperature was 22 degrees, within the normal 14 to 25 degree range. This is good! The interior evaporator coil unit is located on top of the natural gas heating unit in the attic. The exterior unit is dated 1995 making it 12 years old and the interior unit is dated 2001, making it 6 years old. Annual cooling system service by a licensed heating and air contractor is always recommended. (Maintenance tip.)
9.2 COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-The inside air conditioner evaporator unit located in the basement uses a Little Giant automatic condensate removal pump. It is located on the floor next to the unit. It has a 1/2 gallon capacity. More information on this pump can be found at www.lgpc.com.

*****There are two wires protruding out of the pump that have bare ends where taping out of the way is recommended.
9.3 COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
The main level square footage measured about 1660. Using 550 square foot per ton, the 3 ton cooling system would be adequate to cool 1650 square feet where the cooling system should be adequate and properly sized. This is good! The interior evaporator coil is rated at 3.5 ton and the exterior condenser coil 3 ton. Normally a 1/2 ton difference between the two is still considered adequate and should not pose any issues.

GENERAL COOLING UNIT SIZING INFORMATION:

The most widely used or generally accepted rule of thumb states 1 ton for every 550 square foot of living space. This design method is based on the floor area of the house. Of all the design methods, only the "square foot method" is at all reasonable. However opinions on a square footage value varies among licensed heating and air contractors where it is can range from 500 to 700 or even 1000 square foot for well-designed and quality-built homes. Rules of thumb are based largely on experience and possibly from poorly insulated and leaky houses of the past and can lead to excess system capacity and higher costs for the homeowner. Opinions by licensed heating and air contractors on this sizing issue may vary where some may say a half ton overall difference one way or the other is acceptable?
9.4 COOLING SYSTEM
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
The SEER rating if this home's unit is unknown. Refer to additional information listed below.

ADDITIONAL SEER INFORMATION:

US Government SEER Standards

Today, it is rare to see systems rated below SEER 9 in the United States because aging, existing units are being replaced with new, higher efficiency units. The United States now requires that residential systems manufactured after 2005 have a minimum SEER rating of 13, although window units are exempt from this law so their SEERs are still around 10.[3] Substantial energy savings can be obtained from more efficient systems. For example by upgrading from SEER 9 to SEER 13, the power consumption is reduced by 30% (equal to 1 - 9/13). It is claimed that this can result in an energy savings valued at up to US$300 per year depending on the usage rate and the cost of electricity.

With existing units that are still functional and when the time value of money is considered, most often retaining existing units rather than proactively replacing them is the most cost effective. Maintenance should be performed regularly to keep their efficiencies as high as possible.

But when either replacing equipment, or specifying new installations, a variety of SEERs are available. For most applications, the minimum or near-minimum SEER units are most cost effective, but the longer the cooling seasons, the higher the electricity costs, and the longer the purchasers will own the systems, incrementally higher SEER units are justified. Residential split-system ACs of SEER 18 or more are now available, but at substantial cost premiums over the standard SEER 13 units.
9.5 INSTALLED COOLING EQUIPMENT (Visible condition, checking condenser and evaporator units are free of any excess noise and vibration, condenser unit free of overgrowth, coil blockage, and sitting level on a slab.)
Comments: INSPECTED
9.6 OUTSIDE CONDENSER UNIT (Visible condition. It consists of compressor, coils, and blower fan. The compressor compresses low-pressure cold Freon gas, turning it into high pressure Freon gas that runs through the coils with the fan blowing across them to dissipate its heat, and condense into a hot Freon liquid. Warm air should be blowing when you walk by it outside.)
Comments: INSPECTED
9.7 INSIDE EVAPORATOR UNIT (Visible condition. It consists of a Freon metering device that is either an expansion valve or capillary tube, coils, and blower fan. Hot Freon liquid runs through the metering device, evaporates into cold, low-pressure Freon gas, runs through the coils that allow the gas to absorb heat and cool the house as the fan blows air through the coil and out ducts)
Comments: INSPECTED
9.8 CONDENSATION PAN AND LINES (Visible condition, checking for leaks, rust or deterioration and where the line terminates. The pan is where water extracted from the air by the evaporator runs into. Some systems use a pump to extract water out of the pan. Central air conditioning systems provide comfort cooling by lowering air temperature and removing excess moisture.)
Comments: INSPECTED
9.9 WAS TEMPERATURE DROP MEASUREMENT TAKEN FROM SUPPLY AND RETURN VENTS (A low drop could indicate low Freon charge. A high drop could indicate a dirty coil, filter or blower. There are other reasons why the temperature drop is out of range such as thermostat calibration and humidity.)
Comments: INSPECTED
9.10 IS COOLING UNIT ADEQUATE FOR SIZE OF HOUSE (The general rule of thumb is 1 ton for every 550 square feet of living space.)
Comments: INSPECTED

FIREPLACE, CHIMNEY

Styles & Materials
NUMBER OF FIREPLACES:
ONE
NUMBER OF CHIMNEYS:
ONE
CHIMNEY MATERIAL:
BRICK AND MORTAR
2 BROWN CERAMIC LINERS
LOCATION:
LIVING ROOM
FIREPLACE MANUFACTURER:
UNKNOWN
FIREPLACE INFO:
STEEL FIREBOX SIDES
STEEL FIREBOX THROAT
FIREBOX FIREBRICK FLOOR
FIREPLACE INFO:
WOOD BURNING
BRICK HEARTH



Inspection Items
10.0 FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2-The living room fireplace firebox bottom firebrick floor appeared adequate and free of major cracks and deterioration. The steel firebox sides and upper throat appear to have been robustly constructed. This is good! Annual inspection by a licensed fireplace contractor is always recommended.

Any future cracks in firebrick can be patched by making a v-groove in the cracks and filling with a high temperature resistant refractory mortar or sealant available at hardware stores. Recommend monitoring in the future. This type of repair will likely need repeating. Recommend replacing bricks if cracks exceed 1/4in width, if surface pitting becomes extensive and deeper than 3/16in, or if any piece of brick larger than 2in in radius and 3/16in becomes dislodged. It is always recommended that this work be performed by a licensed chimney sweep or fireplace installation and repair contractor. (Maintenance tip.)
10.1 FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not inspect the liner because black powder dust is expected and should be cleaned from inner walls of liner in order to properly inspect for breaks or loose sections. A level 2 inspection, which includes a chimney sweep and camera scan is required/advised upon the sale of a house by the National Fire Protection Code.
10.2 MASONRY SOLID-FUEL BURNING FIREPLACES (Visible condition. They are made from solid masonry, bricks, stone, concrete, mortar and require a footer foundation. All walls exposed to fire should be lined with firebrick or fire-resistive material.)
Comments: INSPECTED
10.3 HEARTH, MANTLE AND WALL (Visible condition. A hearth is made of brick, concrete, tile, stone, or other non-combustible material and must extend at least 16 inches in front of fireplace opening and at least 8 inches on either side of opening.)
Comments: INSPECTED
10.4 FIREPLACE FIREBOX (Visible condition. Fireplace fires are caused by thin walls, combustible materials, wood mantels, unsafe hearths, damaged dampers, improperly sealed or cracked fireboxes and from a heavy creosote build-up in flue.)
Comments: INSPECTED
10.5 DAMPER (Visible condition and operation. When open the lid forms a barrier that prevents downdrafts and deflects the air upward. When closed it is used to seal off the flue when the fireplace is not in use.)
Comments: INSPECTED
10.6 DOES FIREPLACE CHIMNEY HAVE A METAL OR CERAMIC FLUE LINER (Visible condition. Check for excess soot and creosote along interior flue walls. Most fireplaces that are unlined were built before the 1950's and are made from stone, block, and common brick, not firebrick. Exterior of fireplace, chimney, flue liner, and firebox should be free of visible creosote stains leaking out mortar joints, wood or metal seams, indicating a broken flue liner or firebox.)
Comments: INSPECTED

FOUNDATION INTERIOR

Styles & Materials
FOUNDATION INFORMATION:
LEFT SIDE BASEMENT
RIGHT SIDE CRAWLSPACE
EXTERIOR WALL STRUCTURE:
FULL CONCRETE BLOCK WALLS
CEILING STRUCTURE:
2X10 WOOD FLOOR JOISTS
PLYWOOD FLOOR DECKING
FLOOR JOIST SPACING:
16 INCHES
CENTER PIER STRUCTURE:
CONCRETE BLOCK CHIMNEY BASE
2X4 STUD LOAD BEARING WALL
METHOD USED TO OBSERVE CRAWLSPACE:
WALKED OR STOPPED
CRAWLSPACE FLOOR:
DIRT
FULL PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIER
BASEMENT FLOOR:
CONCRETE SLAB
NUMBER & SIZE GARAGE DOOR:
1 SINGLE
16FT X 7FT
HOW DOOR OPENS:
AUTO OPENER
CRAFTSMAN
DOOR MATERIAL:
WOOD-GLASS INSERTS
DOOR SPRINGS:
TORSION SPRING



Inspection Items
11.0 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-Overall basement and crawlspace construction appears adequate and robust with full concrete block walls, center chimney foundation type basement pier, wood stud load bearing walls, 2x10 wood floor joists spaced 16 inches apart, and plywood floor decking. The concrete slab rear porch floor behind the master bedroom is located over the back half of the garage and is robustly supported by a 12in steel I-beam, as shown. This is good!
11.1 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
For your information the basement electrical located along the wall are all controlled by the switch at the bottom of the stairs. The switch must be on for outlets to be on.
11.2 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2,3,4,5-The basement and crawlspace wood members appear adequate and free of major moisture discoloration and deterioration of the kind associated from previous plumbing leaks and the water and drain piping was free of leakage after operating the above kitchen and bathroom fixtures. This is good!
11.3 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
ACE Home Inspections, LLC performs only a visual inspection and does not use items such as moisture meters to probe walls for moisture and is not responsible for hidden or latent defects which arise after time of inspection. A home inspection is a snap shot in time and lists the condition at time of inspection only. ACE Home Inspection, LLC offers no warranties or guarantees and always recommends licensed contractors to perform all repairs.
11.4 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1-The old or original electric water heater is still present within the crawlspace where it was not removed when the new tank was installed..
11.5 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Picture 1
Picture 2
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
1-It is always recommended, but may not be required, that the garage be at least 1-step lower than the house, contain a smoke alarm, a heat sensor, a fire resistant material such as plasterboard be installed on open unfinished garage ceilings and walls under and behind living spaces, and fire resistant metal-clad or metal doors be present on openings into living spaces from the garage. If plasterboard covered garage ceilings are not desired then another option would be the installation of an automatic water sprinkler system. These precautionary measures are known to add what could be critically needed minutes for escape, upon the presence of a fire and are well worth the consideration, time, and expense.

-----SAFETY UPGRADE-----The garage ceiling is unfinished and the basement living space entry door is wood and not metal or metal-clad. Most likely this type of fire-stopping was not be required in the jurisdiction at the time the house was constructed. Sometimes the presence of a smoke alarm and a heat sensor are sufficient. There are hundreds of various jurisdictions throughout the state of Alabama. The knowing of each's specific rules or codes is beyond the scope of the inspection, where the contacting of the local jurisdiction is always recommended, and correcting if required. Robust firestopping is always recommended as a safety upgrade, however may not be required, and in this case may involve the installation of plasterboard on the ceiling and a metal or metal-clad entry door.
11.6 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Picture 6
Picture 7
Picture 8
Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
The basement and crawlspace were free of standing water, however some of the concrete block foundation walls have darker discolored areas and white or areas of efflorescence, indicating previous or present water behind and within the walls. Refer to report section 1.4 for additional information. The numbers correspond to the appropriate pictures.

1-Minor discoloration along the lower edges of the front basement wall. Most likely from exterior landscaping issues.

2-More than minor areas of discoloration along the front garage wall. Most likely from exterior landscaping issues.

3,4,5-More than minor areas of discoloration along the rear garage and basement walls. Most likely due to gutter downspout leakage since this wall is not soil-banked.

6,7,8-More than minor areas of discoloration along the crawlspace walls. Most likely from exterior landscaping issues.



11.7 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
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Comments: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14-The concrete block foundation walls appear relatively level and free of major cracking. This is good, however there is a horizontal hairline to 1/32 inch wide crack located about 4 blocks down or 3 feet from the top of the wall, that spans the majority of the front basement and garage wall. The basement crack is slight or minor however it gets more noticeable or wider as it travels down the garage wall. The garage wall appears to have a slight or minor inward bow. Horizontal cracking such as this can be caused from hydrostatic pressure from water getting behind the wall. With all soil-banked basements it can not be stressed enough how important exterior drainage can be! Water behind a soil-banked concrete block wall can create undo stresses or forces which can over time lead to cracking and structural issues. Refer to report section 1.4 for additional information. This crack could not be viewed from the exterior side because it is below soil grade.

*****This does not appear to be a major issue at the time of the inspection since crack width and bowing are nominal, however if crack width and bowing continue to worsen then a licensed foundation contractor or specialist would be recommended for further investigation and repair. Repair at that time may include but is not limited to the installation of 4 inch steel tubing posts spaced evenly along the front wall. These posts are bolted to the floor joists and to the slab floor. Refer to sample pictures 3 and 4. These possible repair ideas are listed as a courtesy and are not meant to be an actual repair scenario. Any exact repairs scenarios should always be obtained from a licensed foundation contractor or specialist along with any further questions.

*****ACE Home Inspections, LLC performs a foundation visual inspection looking for cracks, differentials, and other obvious concerns, where the foundation and wall construction and other characteristics such as exact concrete block thickness, grade height, and whether the concrete block openings have been filled with poured concrete are unknowns and beyond the scope of the inspection. Refer to the additional information listed below.

ADDITIONAL CONCRETE BLOCK WALL INFORMATION:

Although a simple mortar construction may be adequate for a small free-standing garden wall, it will not be sufficient for foundations, retaining walls or load-bearing walls in houses.

The strength of block construction can be improved by completely filling the voids with concrete, but it is more cost effective use steel reinforcement. Reinforcement can be achieve in several ways. Steel bars (usually called rebar) can be placed vertically within the blocks at evenly spaced intervals. This provides resistance to flexural stress. Steel rebar or steel mesh is placed horizontally between rows of blocks to provide resistance to shear stress. A flexible caulking must be placed at regular intervals in place of mortar to accommodate expansion and contraction of the walls. Without these joints, concrete block walls will inevitably develop cracks.

Thickness of Wall Maximum Height* of Backfill (Slab to Grade)

8 inches 4 feet
10 inches 6 feet
12 inches 7 feet

*Note: Maximum height refers to the height of the soil against the wall and not the height of the wall itself.

*****The 1999 Standard Building Code Table 1804.6.1A requires an 8 foot high wall with 8 foot of backfill to be constructed using a 10 or 12 inch thick concrete block filled with granite, grout, or concrete. It is important to note that the jurisdiction where the house was constructed may not have a concrete block thickness requirement.

This information was provided as a courtesy or as general information and is not meant to reflect the actual characteristics of the inspected home.
11.8 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Comments: MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1-The light switch at the bottom of the basement stairs is missing a cover. (safety)
11.9 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
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Comments: MORE THAN MINOR REPAIRS, (REFER TO REPORT PICTURES)
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-The crawlspace wood members appear structurally adequate and free of major moisture discolorations. This is good! Some wood members however have a slight covering or coating of what may be a moisture discoloration. Possible causes of these discolorations and moisture reduction maintenance tips may include but are not limited to the items discussed below.

(SOIL BANKING) It is always recommended that all soil against the exterior walls be sloped gently down and away for proper drainage.

(GUTTERS) Gutters are always recommended, but are not required.

(VAPOR BARRIER) A plastic vapor barrier is always recommended to keep inherent ground water to a minimum.

(PLUMBING LEAKS) Previous and present plumbing leaks from aged and corroded water and drain piping can raise the moisture content where repairs and appropriate upgrades are always recommended.

(EXHAUST VENTS) All dryer or downdraft kitchen hoods should always exhaust to the exterior.

(VENTILATION) Adequate ventilation is very important and is usually in the form of small vet openings in the walls where a cross-breeze can be established. Robust or additional ventilation is always welcomed, and may include but is not limited to the installation of small fans designed to fit in the existing crawlspace vents or larger fan(s) within the entry door(s). Fans help circulate the air and remove moisture to the exterior.

(DEHUMIDIFIER) Crawlspace areas are normally damp from inherent ground moisture. Moisture can be reduced through the installation of a dehumidifier.

(GROUND WATER) Sometimes inherent ground water is determined to be the issue where the contractor may recommend, the banked soil be removed, the walls coated, and a proper designed drainage system be installed along the exterior walls, and/or a trench or mote installed around the perimeter of the walls where all water drains to a centrally located sump pump, where these would be the more involved and costly approach.

These types of moisture issues are sometimes difficult to diagnose where a system of trial and error sometimes must be undertaken. Usually the obvious and least costly approaches such as proper soil banking, downspout issues, full plastic vapor barriers, maintenance and repair of water and drain piping, ventilation, and the use of dehumidifiers are taken care of before proceeding.

These responses are purely speculative because there are some unknowns and it was not raining at time of inspection.

The actual wood members appear to be structurally adequate and are just lightly coated in some areas with a slight discoloration. ACE Home Inspections, LLC is not a licensed remediator and makes no claims on how to determine any discoloration characteristics, and does not sample, test, remove, or repair any areas of moisture discoloration or deterioration and only reports on the findings observed at the time of the inspection. When dealing with a crawlspace, especially ones where discolorations of any kind were observed which may cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and when all the heating and air ductwork is in the crawlspace where some of the crawlspace air can be recycled throughout the house interior, a licensed contractor is always recommended to further investigate which may include air sample and discoloration testing.

*****ALL DUCTWORK IS LOCATED WITHIN THE CRAWLSPACE.

Installation of a vent system air cleaning system is always recommended, but not required, especially in a crawlspace or basement containing the houses' heating and air ductwork. Types of air cleaning or purifier systems are listed below.

1-(germicidal UV lamp or air-purifier that installs in the ductwork) These are not just for allergies. UV light is known to destroy many virus types, mold, and bacteria. Units such as the Robertson Industrial Lighting Model UV-12 produce ultraviolet germicidal irradiation.

2-(electronic air-cleaner under the heating unit) in the carport storage room. In head-to-head independent testing of home air cleaners, researchers found that electronic air cleaners such as the TRANE CleanEffectsJ cleaned indoor air several hundred times more effectively than not only the 1-inch disposable filter found in most American homes, but also the "in-room" type air cleaners that consumers have bought by the tens of thousands.

3-(radiant catalytic ionization (RCI) cell used in DuctwoRx) DuctwoRx states it reduces cooking, household, and pet odors, air pollutants, chemical odors, smoke, and viruses. It helps to clean, purify, and sanitize the air and reduces up to 99.9% of Bacteria & Mold such as Staph, E. Coli, Strep, and Black Mold on the surfaces of your home. This product installs directly on your heating and air system.

ACE Home Inspections, LLC does not endorse or recommend a specific system or manufacturer and only lists them as a courtesy and always recommends further investigation and research if an actual system is to be chosen.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE CRAWLSPACE WOOD MEMBERS ARE FREE OF MAJOR AREAS OF DISCOLORATION AND THE DISCOLORED AREAS ARE STILL STRUCTURALLY ADEQUATE. SMALL AMOUNTS OF DISCOLORATIONS ARE COMMON WITHIN AN AGED CRAWLSPACE AND USUALLY ONLY CREATE CONCERNS FOR INDIVIDUALS PRONE TO ALLERGIES OR ASTHMA, HOWEVER STILL MERIT CONSIDERATION ALONG WITH PROPER MAINTENANCE AND THE CORRECTION OR REDUCTION OF ANY MOISTURE ISSUES.


OVERALL SUMMATION: The crawlspace floor is covered with a plastic vapor barrier, gutters are present, the dryer vent escapes properly through the rear wall, and there do not appear to be any major plumbing issues or previous leakage. This is all good, however overall crawlspace ventilation is inadequate where NO vents were observed along the exterior walls. The entire crawlspace is 100% dark when the interior basement wall scuttle hole door is closed. Robust ventilation is always recommended which is this case may include but is not limited to the installation of some wall vents and possibly some vent fans as shown in the pictures. This is especially important due to previous moisture issues brought about from improper landscaping.
11.10 BASEMENT, CRAWLSPACE, FOUNDATION INTERIOR
Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1-A basement and crawlspace can be damp where the use of a dehumidifier(s) to help with air movement and moisture content are always recommended, but not required. Generally speaking winter air is dry where a device call a humidifier can be used to put moisture back in the air, while in the summer air is too damp where a device called a dehumidifier can be used to remove unwanted or excessive moisture from the air.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Air Conditioners

Air conditioners in addition to cooling the air, drop the humidity by removing a significant amount of water from the air. During the hot air conditioning times of the summer, it is more economical and practical to NOT open the windows at night even if it cools outside slightly. Leave the house closed up and don't bring the humid air inside. If you do, during the day, the air conditioner will be working that much harder to remove the heat and moisture from the air that was introduced during the night. There is a significant amount of moisture not just in the air, but absorbed by the furniture, wood etc in the house that will need to be removed to lower the humidity level in the house again. For comfort, a humid room will have to be much cooler than a dry room to have the same degree of comfort feel. So, consider this when it cools off a bit outside, if you will be running the A/C again tomorrow and it is still humid outside, don't open the windows.

What is a dehumidifier and how does it work?

The basic mechanical function of a dehumidifier is the same as a refrigerator. Compression and expansion of a gas is used to lower the temperature of metal coils to freezing temperature. However, instead of the cooling action being directed into a closed box, a dehumidifier is designed to blow warm moist room air over these cold coils. The moisture in the room air condenses on the coils to become liquid water. The water then drips into a drip collection pan, or to a drain. The room air, now freed of much of its moisture, returns to the room slightly warmer than it was. Dehumidifiers are controlled by a device known as a humidistat. This is an adjustable rotary switch which detects moisture in the room's air. It automatically turns the dehumidifier on or off as it is needed, based on the setting you choose. If you wish, you can set the dehumidifier to the maximum setting for continuous operation.

Why would I want to purchase one?

If you store anything of value in your basement, or if you use your basement as living space, it is important to keep the moisture level low. Unlike the rest of your home, the parts of your foundation that are below ground level, or "grade", is constantly in contact with moisture from the earth outside. Though some homes have adequate vapor and water barriers installed outside their foundations, many older homes have none. This moisture can cause mildew growth and damage to furniture of all types, photos, carpets, and virtually anything except the dog. It is a sad fact that every year people unknowingly destroy their valuable possessions by not taking steps to lower the level of moisture in their basement's air.

How big a dehumidifier should I buy?

Good question, but the answer is unclear. There are arguments for both large and small dehumidifiers. Large ones remove moisture faster, so they operate for shorter periods of time. However, there is more electricity used per hour to run a larger dehumidifier. Since more electricity is used at "start-up" than during any other time in the cycle, some of the apparent cost benefits of large size are lost. Considering that larger units are also more expensive to purchase, there may be little or no benefit to buying an oversized unit for most people. Bigger can at times really be better! The advantages of size are most noticeable when dehumidifying a large area. A small dehumidifier may run continuously and still never lower the humidity to an acceptable level. A larger unit, by dehumidifying a larger amount of air per hour, can keep up with the demands of a large room.

Do I need someone to install it?

That depends. Since the condensed water drips from the coils it has to go somewhere. If your basement has only a small moisture problem and you don't mind carrying the drip pan outside or to a sink, just put the dehumidifier on the floor and plug it in. It will shut off automatically when the drip pan is full... hopefully. This is not the most fun way to live with a dehumidifier... the drip pans (especially on the larger units) hold a lot of water and can be quite heavy when full. The solution is to install your dehumidifier so that it is self-draining. If you have a sink or toilet in the basement, or even a lowly floor drain, place the dehumidifier on a table or a shelf and run a hose from the drip pan to the drain. If you do not have a drain you can still make your unit self-draining, but things get more complicated. Since dehumidifiers do not pump water upwards, you may need to install a sink pump. This is a special enclosed pump designed for non-sewage use to move waste water upwards to your plumbing drain pipes. It will work with sinks, washing machines, water softeners, and... yes, dehumidifiers. Another alternative is to put the dehumidifier on a table or shelf so that it can drip into a large container, such as a 5 gallon bucket on the floor. This will decrease your number of trips for sure. The only drawback is that the dehumidifier will have no way to know if the bucket is full, so it will continue to run even after the bucket is full and overflowing all over the new carpet!

Should I use a dehumidifier year round?

That depends on the temperature of your basement and your local climate. Dehumidifiers do not function well at lower temperatures, so under 65 degrees it is almost a waste of money to run them. Plus, as the air temperature drops, the risk of freezing the coils increases (read the next question for more on freeze-ups). If you heat your basement, the warm air will move moisture from the basement to the house above, keeping the humidity lower in the basement and slightly humidifying the rest of the house. In areas where the ground is frozen for most or all of the winter, the amount of moisture that will migrate through the basement floor and walls will drop dramatically in the winter, so the need for dehumidification decreases. However, if you live in a temperate area, and your basement is not heated, you may have to run the dehumidifier year round.

Is there any maintenance to perform?

You should check the coils at least seasonally and keep them clear of dust and dirt. If the unit has a removable front cover, there may be a foam filter inside that should also be cleaned. The purpose of this cleaning is two-fold. First, dust and dirt can insulate the coils from the room air, decreasing the efficiency of the dehumidifier. Secondly, this same dirt will get damp and possibly freeze. Freezing is the most damaging thing that can happen to your dehumidifier because it will run continuously but not dehumidify the air.

Humidifier Information

When the weather is cold, we close the windows and turn up the heat. This is bad news for our comfort and our health. Low humidity can cause dry skin, cracked lips, itchy eyes, sore throat, and sinus headaches. One thing that makes winter uncomfortable for humans, even inside a nice warm building, is low humidity. People need a certain level of humidity to be comfortable. In the winter, indoor humidity can be extremely low and the lack of humidity can dry out your skin and mucous membranes. Low humidity also makes the air feel colder than it actually is. Dry air can also dry out the wood in the walls and floors of our houses. As the drying wood shrinks, it can cause creaks in floors and cracks in drywall and plaster. This is why dehumidifiers are used in the summer and humidifiers are used in the winter. These are just some of the symptoms of living in air that is too dry. A humidifier can sometimes help to relieve these symptoms.

*****.Air quality of the home is beyond the scope of the inspection. This information was provided as a courtesy and is not meant to endorse usage. Opinions on and the the use of dehumidifiers and humidifiers may vary. In the event of the presence of air which is "too damp" or "too dry" or upon any questions involving the home's air quality a licensed heating and air or air quality contractor is always recommended.
11.11 CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition of girders, piers, columns, supports, foundation walls, floor joists, decking and wood members, exposed wiring and plumbing. Check that all wood is free of visible contact with dirt, there is a vapor barrier covering dirt floor, and crawlspace is free of visible water and debris and all areas are accessible.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.12 CRAWLSPACE (Visible condition and operation of entry hatches and vents. Check for missing and damaged vent screens that keep animals out of crawlspace.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.13 ARE ALL CRAWLSPACE AREAS DRY AND NOT WET OR UNUSUALLY DAMP (Crawlspace is inherently damp even though there are no problems with water seepage. It is a result of the capillary rise of ground moisture which can be reduced by covering the ground with a plastic vapor barrier and having adequate crawlspace ventilation)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.14 BASEMENT (Visible condition of unfinished basement floor, foundation structure, exposed wiring and plumbing, ceilings, walls, cabinets, shelving and workbenches. Check that basement is free of visible water and that all basement areas are accessible.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.15 BASEMENT (Visible condition and operation of windows, doors, floor, worksinks, lights, switches, and outlets. Check that worksinks have an air gap to prevent back siphonage.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.16 ARE BASEMENT OR CRAWLSPACE ELECTRICAL OUTLETS GFCI PROTECTED
Comments: INSPECTED
11.17 ARE MASONRY SURFACES FREE OF EFFLORESCENCE DEPOSITS (These are mineral salts in the masonry that dissolve in water as it passes through walls and floors. After the water evaporates from the surface, it deposits these white salts. A thick layer of efflorescence is an indication of considerable seepage.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.18 ARE FOUNDATION WALLS/FLOORS FREE OF VISIBLE HORIZONTAL CRACKS, V-CRACKS, OR CRACKS 1/4 INCH OR LARGER(Horizontal cracks in concrete, brick, or sheetrock could indicate foundation or structural problems. V-cracks are cracks that are much wider at the top than the bottom and indicate possible settlement problems.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.19 IS CONCRETE FREE OF HEAVING CRACKS (Heaving cracks are criss-crossed all over and warrant further investigation.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.20 IS CONCRETE FREE OF SHRINKAGE OR HAIRLINE CRACKS (These type cracks are normal, cosmetic, usually not serious and may have been caused from original concrete mix problems or from settlement after house was constructed. Most likely there should not be a problem, if the cracks have not worsened with time.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.21 IS CONCRETE FREE OF FOOTER FAILURE (This is a crack(s) that runs continuous around the perimeter of the floor anywhere from 12 to 26 inches from the outside edges and warrant further investigation.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.22 OVERHEAD GARAGE DOOR AND OPERATORS (Visible condition and operation. Checking that garage doors "reverse" with resistance. There should be sensors located near the bottom of the door. If the sensors detect anything in the path of the closing door, the door will automatically reverse or open back up, and if the garage doors raise using side springs, that there are safety restraining cables through both of them.)
Comments: INSPECTED
11.23 FIRE RETARDANT MATERIALS (Walls and ceilings adjacent to living areas are covered with fire-resistant material like dry-wall, All doors leading into living areas are properly sealed and fire-resistant type, and garage floor is at least 1 step lower than house slab to help prevent toxic gases from entering house.
Comments: INSPECTED

COMPLIMENTARY PHOTOS


 



Inspection Items
12.0 COMPLIMENTARY PHOTOS
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Comments: FOR YOUR INFORMATION
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18-Complimentary photos.

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